{"id":6462,"date":"2021-07-08T15:57:24","date_gmt":"2021-07-08T13:57:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/?p=6462"},"modified":"2021-09-09T18:45:12","modified_gmt":"2021-09-09T16:45:12","slug":"de-dar-es-salaam-a-arusha","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/de-dar-es-salaam-a-arusha\/","title":{"rendered":"De Dar es Salaam \u00e0 Arusha"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

From Dar Es Salaam to Arusha<\/span><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mardi 1er juin<\/strong>
De retour de Zanzibar, nous sommes invit\u00e9s par Carole et Kizito pour le repas du soir.
C’est Kizito qui se met aux fourneaux et nous concocte un d\u00e9licieux repas traditionnel.
Apr\u00e8s cette fort sympathique soir\u00e9e, nous passons la nuit dans notre Azala\u00ef, juste devant leur maison, o\u00f9 il nous a attendu durant notre semaine sur Zanzibar.
Merci Carole et Kizito <\/strong>pour cette chaleureuse rencontre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Coming back from Zanzibar Kizito prepares dinner for us with millet, teff (cereals originating from Ethiopia) and spinach made from cassava leaves. All prepared with coconut milk and spices and super tasty! I have bought teff at the market later on and will try reproduce this<\/span><\/em>.
We spent the night in front of Carole and Kizito\u2019s house<\/strong>, right where the Azala\u00ef had spent the week during our absence.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Apr\u00e8s avoir encore pass\u00e9 la matin\u00e9e avec Carole et Kizito<\/strong>, nous nous s\u00e9parons \u00e0 regret et nous nous d\u00e9pla\u00e7ons vers une partie calme de la ville de Dar Es Salaam, la p\u00e9ninsule de Msasani,<\/strong> lieu de r\u00e9sidence des expatri\u00e9s, o\u00f9 l\u2019on acc\u00e8de facilement \u00e0 tous les services, tel que supermarch\u00e9s, restaurants, coiffeurs etc\u2026
En chemin, on passe toutefois par le centre de la ville, satur\u00e9 de trafic, pour nous rendre dans le quartier indien.
Selon les dires, c\u2019est l\u2019endroit o\u00f9 il faut aller si l\u2019on a besoin de faire une bricole sur son v\u00e9hicule.
Il se trouve justement que les batteries<\/strong> de la cabine de l\u2019Azala\u00ef<\/strong> n\u00e9cessitent d\u2019\u00eatre remplac\u00e9es.
Selon iOverlander<\/strong>, l\u2019application que nous utilisons le plus pour trouver campings et services, Ilham batteries<\/strong> serait le plus fiable.
Arriv\u00e9s devant le magasin, nous nous arr\u00eatons en bloquant toute la circulation, les places de parc \u00e9tant inexistantes.
Michel<\/strong> baisse sa vitre et crie que nous voulons acheter une batterie.
Instantan\u00e9ment, 3 personnes viennent pr\u00eater main forte en faisant d\u00e9gager une place devant le magasin, et 3 minutes plus tard, l\u2019Azala\u00ef est rang\u00e9 et la circulation reprend son cours.
L\u2019\u00e9change des batteries se fera avec la m\u00eame c\u00e9l\u00e9rit\u00e9
L\u2019explication du probl\u00e8me, le choix des batteries, l\u2019installation et le test que tout fonctionne bien prend \u00e0 peine 1 heure et demie.
Ils sont vraiment spontan\u00e9s et efficaces ces Indiens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our plan is now to visit Dar<\/strong> and to finish our new blog article<\/strong>.
For this Michel has found a lovely hotel in a quiet part of the city. It is very green here and we see various embassies and expat compounds. A big contrast to the crowded, colorful and noisy town centre only a few km from here!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Oh, and we also need a new camping batterie<\/strong>. It is loaded via a solar panel on our roof or via the motor while we drive. We need it mainly for our fridge and lights inside the camper. 
Dar es Salam seems to be the ideal place<\/strong> for this and we find a recommendation for a shop in the internet.
In very dense traffic (Dar has 6 million inhabitants!)<\/strong> we drive to the quarter where you can buy anything that has to do with cars. The GPS brings us to a narrow road where uncountable  little shops sell car batteries and related equipment.
Michel stops in front of \u201cIllham Batteries\u201d and blocks the whole traffic. He opens the window and signals that he wants to buy a battery. In no time the people of the shop create a parking slot for us by moving a sugar cane selling stand out of the way and the traffic can move on. Nobody thought it necessarily to blow the horn! Imagine this in Europe!
Our battery has a specific size and it takes a while to find a model that finally fits into the same spot. <\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ceci \u00e9tant fait, nous nous remettons dans le flot de la circulation et rejoignons le Fig Tree Residences<\/strong> o\u00f9 nous allons passer les prochains jours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mercredi 2 juin<\/strong>
Visite des divers march\u00e9s de Dar es Salaam<\/strong> au programme pour aujourd\u2019hui.
Nous avons rendez-vous avec Kizito et Carole<\/strong> au Kivukoni fish market<\/strong> \u00e0 09h00.
Un taxi d\u2019Uber nous y am\u00e8ne en 45 minutes et la visite peut commencer.
Kizito<\/strong>, n\u00e9 ici, connait la ville comme sa poche et surtout, connait tout le monde.
Il nous fait ainsi d\u00e9couvrir le c\u00f4t\u00e9 pile et le c\u00f4t\u00e9 face, que le touriste non accompagn\u00e9 ne verra jamais.

To visit Dar we do a great tour of the different markets with Kizito and Carole as guides<\/strong>. It is a lively and colorful walk through the busy city<\/strong> and we see many places we would not have found or dared to visit on our own. 
We start with the huge fish market <\/strong>(interesting experience for my nose and stomach). It is not only a market for fresh fish and seafood but also for anything you may need in connection with buying, preparing and transporting<\/strong> it. There is an area where you can by freshly prepared local food, or where they fry your own fish for you, you can buy the sauces\/pickles you may need, you can buy frying oil and there is a corner where they sell ice and packaging in case you have to transport the fish over a longer distance.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les cuisines du march\u00e9 au poissons o\u00f9 l’on peut faire cuire son propre poisson et le manger sur place.
The “restaurant”.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le vendeur de coquillages.
Beautiful shells<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le stand des pr\u00e9parations \u00e9pic\u00e9es.
The pickles and sauces.<\/span><\/em> I buy one with green mango. it is so hot that no bacteria can survive in it (I hope).<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La caf\u00e9t\u00e9ria o\u00f9 le caf\u00e9 est pr\u00e9par\u00e9 sur du charbon de bois et servi avec des cacahu\u00e8tes, tout \u00e7a pour l’\u00e9quivalent de 8 de nos centimes.
And there is a coffee place where we stop and have a cup of coffee and a piece of peanut brittle<\/strong> – for 8 cents.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les f\u00e9culents et p\u00e2tes.
A multitude of dried beans and multi <\/i>colored pasta<\/strong> shapes (extruded <\/i><\/span>obviously<\/span><\/em> 😉).<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les poissons s\u00e9ch\u00e9s.
Huge heaps of dried fish<\/strong> (yes, a little smelly <\/span><\/em>😉<\/span>)<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les l\u00e9gumes dans leur grande vari\u00e9t\u00e9 de couleurs.
There are tonnes of fresh and colorful vegetables and fruits.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les bananes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les avocats, incroyablement cr\u00e9meux, qui font le bonheur de Michel qui en est fan.
Soooo many avocados! and they are super creamy and don’t cost a thing<\/span><\/em>. Heaven for Michel!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On change de quartier pour nous rendre au march\u00e9 des fripes.
T-shirts en quantit\u00e9.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And the second hand cloth and shoe market.
The next very big market: Second hand clothes and shoes from Europe are a big business here.
Everything is washed and ironed. The best pieces are sold in shops and.the rest comes here. A lot looks actually new.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Chaussures en vrac.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Encore dans un autre quartier de la ville, Kizito<\/strong> nous fait d\u00e9couvrir les coulisses des graveurs et sculpteurs sur \u00e9b\u00e8ne.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

And another place where the woodcarving<\/strong> is done. Mainly with ebony<\/strong>.
The artisans are very skilled and it is hard not to buy some of the statues. But we really don\u2019t have space in our car.<\/span><\/em> 😢<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This was my favorite piece<\/span><\/em> 😢<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On se d\u00e9place \u00e0 nouveau, pour cette fois entrer dans le sein des peintres de l\u2019art Tingatinga<\/strong>.
Le mouvement Tingatinga est une \u00e9cole de peinture tanzanienne fond\u00e9e en 1960 par Eduardo Saidi Tingatinga.
Repr\u00e9sentant le plus souvent des animaux, les couleurs sont utilis\u00e9es pures, sans dilution ni m\u00e9lange. L’emploi d’\u00e9maux donne un rendu brillant et glac\u00e9 \u00e0 l’ensemble.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But we do decide to buy a few paintings in the Tingatinga Centre!
The Tinga Tinga style painting<\/strong> (naive, caricatural, with bright, multiple layered bicycle paint) was developed by Edward Sa\u00efd Tingatinga in the second half of the 20th century in Dar Es Salaam. After his death it spread to most East Africa countries. It is purely tourist-oriented. No Tanzanian would ever buy a painting like this, Kizito had told us.
Well, a day later, after negotiations, we not only bought one big painting but also three small ones. Looks like we have a touristy taste. <\/span><\/em>😉<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On fait ensuite un petit tour dans le quartier d’enfance de Kizito<\/strong>.
The market tour is followed by a visit of Kizito’s birthplace.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On termine notre tour en fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi par une bi\u00e8re au bord de l\u2019oc\u00e9an accompagn\u00e9s par trois musiciens qui nous jouent quelques airs tanzaniens.
Followed by a beer at the famous Coco Beach.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Nous entamons les n\u00e9gociations et une vingtaine de minutes plus tard, l\u2019affaire est conclue, \u00e0 la satisfaction des deux parties.
L\u2019oeuvre embarqu\u00e9e dans l\u2019Azala\u00ef, nous quittons Dar Es Salaam<\/strong> pour de bon avec l\u2019objectif de rallier la petite ville de p\u00eacheurs de Bagamoyo<\/strong>.
C\u2019est la Traveller\u2019s Lodge<\/strong> que nous choisissons pour y passer la nuit, celle-ci ayant re\u00e7u les meilleurs commentaires dans notre application pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9e, iOverlander<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dimanche 6 juin<\/strong>
La ville de Bagamoyo<\/strong> m\u00e9rite une petite visite.
Aujourd’hui, simple petit village de p\u00eacheurs, elle \u00e9tait auparavant le plus important port de commerce de la r\u00e9gion.
Trafiquants d’esclave, vendeurs d’ivoire et de copra, en faisaient le plus grand march\u00e9 de la c\u00f4te Est de l’Afrique centrale.
Occup\u00e9e par les Allemands<\/strong> \u00e0 la fin du 19\u00e8me si\u00e8cle, ils y ont \u00e9tabli leur quartier g\u00e9n\u00e9ral,<\/strong> avant de d\u00e9placer le port \u00e0 Dar Es Salaam, o\u00f9 la profondeur de l’eau plus importante permettait l’acc\u00e8s aux bateaux \u00e0 vapeur de l’\u00e9poque.
Le b\u00e2timent du QG a d\u2019ailleurs \u00e9t\u00e9 partiellement restaur\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Situated<\/span><\/em> 80km North of Dar el Salaam Bagamoyo<\/strong> is today a simple fishing village but was once an important trading harbor for copra, ivory and slaves. In the late 19th century it had even developed into the most important trading harbor of the east Central African coast. 
It was then that it became the capital of the German East Africa colony<\/strong> until the harbor was moved to Dar Es Salaam where the bey was deeper and more adapted to heavy steam boats. In 1916 during world war l the Germans lost Bagamoyo to the British.<\/span><\/em>
Some German buildings are still present. Like the partly renovated headquarters.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Aujourd\u2019hui, c\u2019est jour de march\u00e9 sur la plage.
Cette jeune maman va essayer de gagner quelques Shillings en y vendant son chargement de fruits.
We are up early today and just in time for the veggie, fruit and fish market<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Nous voil\u00e0 plong\u00e9s au coeur de la foule, les p\u00eacheurs tentant d\u2019\u00e9couler le fruit de leur travail aux potentiels acheteurs, joliment v\u00eatus de leurs habits aux couleurs bigarr\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As usual, we are the only white people in the crowd<\/strong>. 2 months ago I would have felt very uncomfortable about this. Today I am still not super easy but don\u2019t feel personally threatened anymore. I just know that we will pay higher prices than anyone else here and that if I had my phone in a pocket it would soon be gone. <\/em><\/span>
I think Michel doesn’t care at all and doesn’t really know what I am talking about here. <\/span>
Maybe because he is taller than anyone else here and overlooks the crowd. <\/span><\/em>😉<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Celui-l\u00e0 pr\u00e9f\u00e8re s\u2019abandonner aux bras de Morph\u00e9e.
A few meters further there is quiet beach. Only the fish smell lingers on.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Nous quittons Bagamoyo<\/strong> en d\u00e9but d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi.
Apr\u00e8s avoir fi\u00e8rement parcouru l\u2019honorable distance de 230 kilom\u00e8tres en 4 heures (fait rarissime), nous nous arr\u00eatons \u00e0 la Haule Classic Lodge<\/strong>, le jour allant tirer sa r\u00e9v\u00e9rence dans peu de temps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lundi 7 juin<\/strong>
Nous retournons pour quelques jours au bord de l\u2019oc\u00e9an indien avant de le quitter pour la r\u00e9gion des Usambaras Mountains<\/strong>.
La r\u00e9gion est tr\u00e8s propice a la culture du sisal<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The region is full of Sisal plantations<\/strong>. The fiber of this agave variant is used for ropes and rough fabrics<\/strong>. Already cultivated here since a few hundred years in the plantations almost completely disappeared with the invention of nylon. They are back now strongly with the global interest in natural produce.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cette fibre, issue des feuilles de l\u2019agave,<\/strong> a eu ses heures de gloire avant l\u2019apparition du nylon<\/strong>, puis a cess\u00e9 d’\u00eatre utilis\u00e9e pendant quelques d\u00e9cennies.
Aujourd\u2019hui, elle revient en force avec le changement d\u2019attitude des peuples par rapport au synth\u00e9tique et \u00e0 la demande croissante des produits naturels.

Selon notre guide de voyage, la plage d\u2019Usongo<\/strong> est l\u2019une des plus belles du pays.
C\u2019est par cons\u00e9quent l\u00e0 que l\u2019on va, en choisissant le Beach Crab Resort<\/strong> comme point de chute.
Ben\u2026..en voyant l\u2019endroit, on se demande qui a d\u00e9fini cette plage comme \u00e9tant la plus belle de Tanzanie,
Une longue bande de sable sur plusieurs kilom\u00e8tres s\u2019offre \u00e0 nos yeux mais sans charme particulier.
On a m\u00eame pas pris une photo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We plan our next stop at about 100km further north at the most beautiful beach and the nicest beach lodge of the Tanzanian coast<\/strong>, as per our guide books.
Unfortunately the coastline between us and this paradise is now a national park and if we want to drive through it we have to pay roughly 400 $US entrance fee for us and the car. So we decide for the 300km detour around the park…
…Only to realize that our guide books are not up to date. We have seen better beaches and the beach lodge is nice but looks a little neglected.
We have to admit though that the latter is certainly due to Covid. Without tourists for now more than a year there is no income and also no motivation for any maintenance. <\/strong>
The hot, humid and salty climate at the cost has dose the rest: The natural material used for the cottages gets moldy quickly and then falls apart. A real pity!
In fact, most of the lodges and beach resorts we see along our road are in a bad state and are closed.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mardi 8 juin<\/strong>
On avait pr\u00e9vu de passer 2 nuits dans cet endroit, mais ne trouvons aucun argument pour rester un jour de plus.
Nous longeons la c\u00f4te en direction du nord et, arriv\u00e9s \u00e0 Pangani,<\/strong> la route s\u2019interrompt brusquement au bord de la rivi\u00e8re \u00e9ponyme.
Hakuna Matata, un ferry  va nous permettre de passer l\u2019obstacle en quelques minutes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On our way up the coast at the search for the best beach<\/span><\/em>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Un vingtaine de kilom\u00e8tres plus loin, nous nous arr\u00eatons au Peponi Beach Resort.<\/strong>
Encore un endroit chaudement recommand\u00e9 par les guides de voyage mais qui para\u00eet un peu n\u00e9glig\u00e9 \u00e0 nos yeux.
Il faut en fait comprendre que l\u2019ann\u00e9e Covid a compl\u00e8tement tu\u00e9 le tourisme, et que nous sommes dans les premiers \u00e0 visiter \u00e0 nouveau ces lieux.
Les propri\u00e9taires, souvent Blancs, sont rentr\u00e9s chez eux et ont laiss\u00e9 un nombre tr\u00e8s restreint d\u2019employ\u00e9s s\u2019occuper du site.
Comme il n\u2019y a g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement pas de clients, on peut comprendre qu\u2019ils ne font pas d\u2019exc\u00e8s de z\u00e8le pour maintenir la place en parfaite condition.
Malgr\u00e9 le fait que nous soyons les seuls, nous prenons l\u2019initiative de tester le restaurant \u00e0 l\u2019occasion du repas du soir et avons le privil\u00e8ge de pouvoir composer notre menu \u00e0 notre convenance.
Ce sera Red Snapper (genre de daurade) pour le poisson avec crevettes et gambas, directement livr\u00e9s par les p\u00eacheurs du village voisin.
Un r\u00e9gal !!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mercredi 9 juin<\/strong>
Balade le long de la plage pour visiter le village de p\u00eacheurs distant de 2 kilom\u00e8tres.
Ce qui donne lieu \u00e0 quelques images \u00e0 mar\u00e9e basse.
Farniente pour le reste de la journ\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despite our disappointment, a rather overcast sky and some rare thunderstorms we spent two more days at Pangani beach.
We are the only guests at the beach lodge and also the only tourists at the beach for probably hundreds of kilometers. <\/strong><\/em>😁
We do realize that our expectations were very high and that the place is finally not so bad.
So we actually enjoy this two very lazy days, with a personalized service at the beach bar and the excellent restaurant\u2026<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jeudi 10 juin<\/strong>
M\u00e9t\u00e9o un peu maussade pr\u00e9vue pour aujourd\u2019hui.
Nous pensions rester ici 2 nuits, mais finalement, nous d\u00e9cidons de lever le camp et rejoindre notre prochain objectif, les Usambara Mountains<\/strong>.
200 kilom\u00e8tres et 4 heures plus tard, nous changeons compl\u00e8tement d\u2019atmosph\u00e8re.
En route, quelques chargements sur deux-roues attirent notre attention.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

…but then we are ready for a change. 
Also because the sun has now complete left us and there is more and more rain!<\/span><\/em>
We leave the coast <\/strong>and turn west. We are headed direction Usambara Mountains<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em>
(For the Germans: yes this is where the Usambara Veilchen comes from!).<\/span><\/em>
200km and 4hours later we start to climb up the mountains.<\/em>
On the road we observe inventive transportation manners.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Nous passons de l\u2019oc\u00e9an indien \u00e0 la montagne avec 1500 m\u00e8tres de gain d\u2019altitude, tout en passant des 30\u00b0C du bord de mer \u00e0 un petit 20\u00b0C lorsque nous atteignons Irente Farm,<\/strong> notre premi\u00e8re \u00e9tape dans ces montagnes.
Du bar<\/strong> au bord de l\u2019oc\u00e9an, nous passons au salon avec chemin\u00e9e<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The cold season has just started here in the mountains. From over 30\u00b0C at the coast to around 20\u00b0C is a bit of a temperature choc for us and needs some adaptation in clothing! <\/span><\/em>😱
From the beach<\/strong> bar to<\/strong> Irente Farm lounge with open fire place<\/strong> within a day. <\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Irente Farm<\/strong> a \u00e9t\u00e9 construite \u00e0 la fin du 19\u00e8me si\u00e8cle par les Allemands afin de tester la possibilit\u00e9 d’implanter une plantation de caf\u00e9.
L’infertilit\u00e9 du sol les \u00e0 toutefois amen\u00e9s \u00e0 abandonner cette id\u00e9e en 1914.
La d\u00e9faite allemande lors de la premi\u00e8re guerre mondiale a permis aux Anglais de reprendre la ferme en 1918.
Peu apr\u00e8s, elle a \u00e9t\u00e9 rachet\u00e9e par un fermier Grec qui y a plant\u00e9 24 hectares de plants de caf\u00e9 arabica et a aussi implant\u00e9 une usine de production de produits laitiers.
Apr\u00e8s l’ind\u00e9pendance de la Tanzanie en 1961, il vend la ferme \u00e0 l’\u00e9glise Luth\u00e9rienne<\/strong> qui la g\u00e8re encore aujourd’hui.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Irente Farm<\/strong> is located at 1500m altitude within the very green western Usambaras.
It is one of the old farms that were built by the Germans or the English during colonial times late 19 or early 20 century. The Europeans started to cultivate coffee here but also enjoyed the cooler mountain climate during summer.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vendredi 11 juin<\/strong>
Jolie randonn\u00e9e dans les montagnes qui nous permet de d\u00e9couvrir la vie des villageois vivant dans cette r\u00e9gion.
Ils vivent de leur r\u00e9colte et souvent travaillent pour les fermes agricoles du coin.
The very fruitful region supplies Dar Es Salaam with fruits and veggies. For us it is ideal for hiking.Through villages, fields and forest.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La lessive est mise \u00e0 s\u00e9cher sur toute place ensoleill\u00e9e.
Life is still very basic here. Often without electricity, poor water quality, in little wood and mud houses with one room for the whole family.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le standard des maisons n\u2019a rien \u00e0 voir avec ce que l\u2019on connait chez nous.
Maisons en torchis n’ayant qu’une seule pi\u00e8ce, dans laquelle toute la famille se r\u00e9fugie pour passer la nuit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Samedi 12 juin<\/strong>
La faune aussi change avec l\u2019altitude.
Ce matin, nous avons droit \u00e0 la visite de L\u00e9on le cam\u00e9.
The climate is not only ideal for agriculture but also for insects and thus insect eaters. <\/span><\/em>😲
This one definitely does not want to let go of his tree branch…<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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But then decides to ignore us and walk away. His facial expression is so funny!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dimanche 13 juin<\/strong>
On va se d\u00e9placer un peu dans ces Usmabara Mountains<\/strong> et rejoindre la Mambo View Point Eco Lodge.<\/strong>
Situ\u00e9e \u00e0 1850 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude, la lodge se trouve sur le sommet d\u2019une colline et n\u00e9cessite deux heures et demie de conduite sur une piste cahoteuse pour y arriver.
Juste avant d\u2019atteindre notre but (en haut \u00e0 droite sur la photo), quelle n\u2019est pas notre surprise de d\u00e9couvrir, \u00e0 plus de 1800 m\u00e8tres, un terrain de foot agr\u00e9ment\u00e9 de gradins creus\u00e9s dans la pente.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We<\/span> climb higher into the mountains to Mambo View Point Eco Lodge<\/strong>. 2 hours of partly rough road get us to 1850m altitude. Suddenly, in the middle of nowhere, just before we reach the lodge we find a perfectly flat, professional size football field with seating rows cut into the red soil of the climbing terrain. <\/em>🤔
Later we learn that this was sponsored by Marion and Herman, the Dutch owners of the Mambo lodge, who also help the people here to better their living conditions. The lodge was in fact created to help finance development projects.
Interesting fact: half of the population here is under 12 years old.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Apr\u00e8s discussion avec Ali et Dagmara<\/strong>, les g\u00e9rants de la lodge, nous apprenons que ce sont les propri\u00e9taires, Herman et Marion<\/strong>, Hollandais d’origine, qui ont sponsoris\u00e9 l\u2019aplanissement du terrain et la cr\u00e9ation de cet espace dans cet environnement o\u00f9 il n\u2019y a pas un coin de plat.
Ils soutiennent d\u2019ailleurs toute la r\u00e9gion par des actions diverses ayant pour but d\u2019am\u00e9liorer la condition de vie des habitants de ces montagnes, dont plus de la moiti\u00e9 a moins de 12 ans.
Une vue imprenable s\u2019offre \u00e0 nous directement depuis notre Azala\u00ef, que nous avons parqu\u00e9 au bord de la pente.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We park our Azala\u00ef on a little spot below the reception and need a bit of time to level the wheels with big pieces of wood. It is worth the effort, the view is exceptional! Apparently at clear weather you can see the Kilimanjaro from here at 170km!
We are again the only guests, great for us but sad for the lodge and it\u2019s employees<\/em> 😥<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Par temps clair, para\u00eet-il qu’il est m\u00eame possible de voir le Mt Kilimandjaro distant de 170 kilom\u00e8tres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lundi 14 juin<\/strong>
Journ\u00e9e tranquille \u00e0 la Lodge et repas en commun avec Hermann et Marion en soir\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the evening we have dinner together with the owners and hear a lot about ongoing development projects. All are based on the principle \u201cenhance the quality of life for the people living around Mambo village (around 50\u2019000). Not by aid, but by trade, education transfer of knowledge and capacity building\u201d.
For example a longer term project where a Suisse agronomist comes here regularly and teaches hands-on about ecological farming.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mardi 15 juin<\/strong>
D\u00e8s l\u2019aurore, d\u00e9part \u00e0 pied depuis la lodge en compagnie de notre guide Josef<\/strong>, pour un circuit de 4 heures, d\u2019abord \u00e0 flanc de falaise puis par villages et for\u00eat.
A peine quitt\u00e9 la r\u00e9ception de la lodge, voil\u00e0 que l\u2019horizon se d\u00e9gage devant nos yeux, nous permettant d\u2019apercevoir la maison d’Herman et Marion<\/strong>, nich\u00e9e tel le nid d’aigle, tout au bord du pr\u00e9cipice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The next day we leave early for a half day hike with our guide Josef. First along the long cliff then through the villages.
Marion\u2019s and Herman\u2019s house at the edge of the cliff with a breathtaking view!<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On grimpe dans la falaise sur un sentier \u00e0 peine marqu\u00e9<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Good we have a guide to find the footpath!<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tiens ! Il y a longtemps que l\u2019on ne vous avait montr\u00e9 de chenilles.
Celle l\u00e0 mesure 15cm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An other impressive caterpillar. This time good 15cm long!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Arriv\u00e9s en haut, une pause s\u2019impose pour admirer le paysage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A little break with a view. <\/em>😲<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On longe maintenant une for\u00eat de pins (import\u00e9s par les allemands \u00e0 la fin du 19\u00e8me si\u00e8cle dans le but de se fournir en bois de feu).
Le hasard d’un effet d’optique fait appara\u00eetre l’un de ceux ci joliment d\u00e9cor\u00e9. <\/p>\n\n\n\n


We walk along a pine forest imported by the Germans during colonial times to grow fire wood. The locals still continue this, since pine grows much quicker than any local tree.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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L\u2019une des nombreuses t\u00e2ches de la vie quotidienne d\u00e9volues aux femmes est d\u2019approvisionner la famille en eau.
Celle-ci vient s’approvisionner \u00e0 l’un des 12 puits for\u00e9s sous l’impulsion de l’\u00e9quipe de la Lodge et maintenue maintenant par une \u00e9quipe de locaux \u00e0 qui en a pris la responsabilit\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of the numerous dwells Mambo lodge has placed in the area. Maintenance is now  organized through a local waterboard.<\/em> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Et aussi en bois de feu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A picture Michel wants to take since a while! So impressive how they balance this load on the head!<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dans l\u2019un des villages travers\u00e9s, une \u00e9cole, dont les \u00e9l\u00e8ves sont en r\u00e9cr\u00e9ation, m\u00e9rite une photo pour immortaliser leur joli sourire.
L’\u00e9cole est obligatoire en Tanzanie.
Les \u00e9l\u00e8ves doivent porter l’uniforme qui doit \u00eatre fourni par les parents, ce qui leur pose souvent un probl\u00e8me financier.
La qualit\u00e9 de l’enseignement est tr\u00e8s pauvre car il est courant de voir plus d’une centaine d’\u00e9l\u00e8ves par classe d\u00fb au fait que les enseignants sont tr\u00e8s mal pay\u00e9s et donc en sous effectif.
Selon les statistiques, apr\u00e8s leur temps de scolarit\u00e9 obligatoire, moins de 10% des \u00e9l\u00e8ves savent lire et \u00e9crire et un 1% aura le niveau suffisant pour entreprendre des \u00e9tudes universitaires.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Muslim School children in their uniform. <\/em>
Uniform is obligatory and parents have to provide it. Often with difficulties. 
School in general is obligatory in Tanzania. Unfortunately the teachers are very badly paid and there are often 100 children in one class! Statistically in this area 90% of the children go to school but only 5 to 10% know how to read and write when they finish. <\/em>😥
Roughly 60% of the people are Muslim and the remaining 40% are Christian. There area absolutely no tensions between both and mixed marriages are ok. Their philosophy: both religions were brought from outside into the country and everybody here is still from the same origin and nation.
We are really impressed with this! <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les Usambara Mountains<\/strong>, \u00e0 la terre tr\u00e8s fertile, permettent jusqu\u2019\u00e0 3 r\u00e9coltes annuelles.
La terre est exclusivement travaill\u00e9e \u00e0 la force des bras et aucune machine agricole ne vient les aider \u00e0 la r\u00e9alisation de ce dur labeur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fertile soil and climate allow up to three crops per year! However all is done manually without any machine or even the help of an animal for ploughing!<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tout \u00e0 coup, Josef<\/strong> nous fait signe de nous approcher et de regarder dans un buisson bordant le chemin.
Il faut bien nous concentrer pour enfin apercevoir un cam\u00e9l\u00e9on<\/strong> parfaitement camoufl\u00e9 dans le feuillage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thanks to Josef we see this perfectly camouflaged chameleon. 
He places it delicately in our hands and with its little fingers it grips with surprising strength. What an amazing animal! Look at the colors, the texture of its skin and its funny double pointy nose. (It is called two horned chameleon and is endemic to the western Usambara mountains).<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On le prend d\u00e9licatement dans la main pour l\u2019examiner d\u2019un peu plus pr\u00e8s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les maisons, construites habituellement sur une structure en bois dont les parois sont recouvertes de boue s\u00e9ch\u00e9e, qui se d\u00e9sagr\u00e8ge facilement \u00e0 la saison des pluies, sont maintenant faites de briques de cette m\u00eame boue, mais qui apr\u00e8s avoir \u00e9t\u00e9 cuites au four, offrent une bien meilleure  r\u00e9sistance aux intemp\u00e9ries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A little bit about local architecture:
The traditional houses here are made from a woodstructure covered with mud and then sometimes white washed with a lime paint. In the long gone past the roof was covered with banana leaves or straw, now replaced by tin that first came from flattened metal oil containers. When the government imposed a changed to plastic oil containers the population had to start buying corrugated iron. (see the house at the right hand side of the picture). 
Newer buildings are made from mud bricks that resist better to the humid weather conditions. For drying the bricks are piled in a specific way and a fire is lit underneath for several days. (See the pile at the left hand side of the picture).<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jolie balade !<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mercredi 16 juin<\/strong>
Il est temps de reprendre la route en direction d\u2019Arusha<\/strong>.
Au moment du d\u00e9part, toute l\u2019\u00e9quipe se r\u00e9unit pour nous faire ses adieux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Farewell to Mambo View Point!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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3 heures de piste cahoteuse nous ram\u00e8nent sur la route principale et 2 heures suppl\u00e9mentaires nous permettent d\u2019atteindre la destination interm\u00e9diaire du jour, Elephant Motel<\/strong> en direction d’Arusha<\/strong>.
En fait d\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9phants nous sommes plut\u00f4t accueillis, et bient\u00f4t envahis, par une famille de singes. L’un d’eux refuse obstin\u00e9ment de quitter le capot de l\u2019Azala\u00ef.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3 hours of dirt road and 2 hour of windy tarred road lead us to the main road direction Arusha, from where all the big safaris start to the famous parks in the north of Tanzania.
We overnight on the parking of Elephant motel. When we come back from a coffee our car is surrounded by a group of monkeys. Nothing unusual here only that one of them does not want to leave its place on the bonnet and makes seriously threatening gestures.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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En fait, on comprend assez vite pourquoi: il avait juste envie de profiter de la chaleur r\u00e9siduelle du capot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We leave him alone an soon understand. It is the colder season here and the warm bonnet is a nice place for a snooz. <\/em>😄<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jeudi 17 juin au Dimanche 20 juin<\/strong>
On se rapproche gentiment d\u2019Arusha<\/strong> et passons ces trois jours au Keys H\u00f4tel \u00e0 Moshi.<\/strong>
Nous sommes autoris\u00e9s de camper dans l\u2019arri\u00e8re cour qui sert de garage et de d\u00e9chetterie au jardinier et on nous met gentiment un bungalow \u00e0 disposition pour douche et toilettes.
On va plut\u00f4t passer nos journ\u00e9es sur la terrasse de l\u2019h\u00f4tel d\u2019o\u00f9 la vue sur la piscine est plus agr\u00e9able que celle que l\u2019on a depuis notre Azala\u00ef.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Second stop on our way to our safari at Keys hotel in Moshi. All camp ground are closed in this area due to the missing tourists. But the hotel let us camp in the backyard between the garage and the waist pit <\/em>🥴. Not ideal but the best we can get. They let us use the very clean bathroom of one of their Rondavels and the common area has a pleasant view onto the pool area.
We are two days early for the start of our safari at Arusha. Although Arusha is a nice town it is rather wet and cold at the moment. So we stay here for 3 nights at 500m lower where the temperature is pleasant.
We use the time to write our blog and plan next travel steps for after our safari. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dimanche 20 juin<\/strong>
Cette fois on y est !
Premier jour de notre Safari<\/strong> pour lequel on a laiss\u00e9 le soin de l\u2019organisation \u00e0 notre amie Genevi\u00e8ve<\/strong> Hall,<\/strong> directrice et propri\u00e9taire de l’agence Tanzania-Travels<\/strong>.
Elle nous a concoct\u00e9 un programme sur 9 jours, gentiment adapt\u00e9 \u00e0 nos souhaits, ce qu’elle fait d’ailleurs pour tous ses clients.
La Tanzanie<\/strong> pratique des prix totalement prohibitifs <\/strong>pour l\u2019entr\u00e9e de ses parcs nationaux aux \u00e9trangers.
Voyez plut\u00f4t :
75 $US par personne pour l\u2019acc\u00e8s au parc,
30 $US par personne pour une place de camping
300 $US pour une voiture priv\u00e9e avec plaques \u00e9trang\u00e8res.
On arrive ainsi \u00e0 un total de 510 $US par jour<\/strong>, juste pour \u00eatre dans le parc.
\u00c0 cela il faut ajouter le prix d\u2019un \u00ab Game Drive<\/strong> \u00bb sortie en jeep avec un ranger de 150 $US<\/strong> si l\u2019on veut avoir plus de chances de voir un maximum d\u2019animaux.
On a donc pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9 laisser notre Azala\u00ef<\/strong> \u00e0 \u00ab Karama lodge <\/strong>\u00bb \u00e0 Arusha<\/strong> et de se laisser conduire \u00e0 travers les parcs par un chauffeur priv\u00e9 durant ces 9 jours de safari.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We have decided to do the real thing for our 10 days Safari in the northern parks of Tanzania. Means we will leave our Azala\u00ef behind, be pampered by our dedicated guide and driver and sleep in beautiful and cozy bush lodges. <\/em>🤩 Our Suisse friend Genevi\u00e8ve from Tanzania Travels has put a wonderful program together for us!
We have to admit that one of the reasons for this choice is the excessive pricing Tanzania applies for foreign \u201cself drivers\u201d. (300$ per day for park access for foreign cars. On top of 75$ access and 30$ camping fee per person per day. As a comparison Kenya charges 3$ per day for a car, no matter what license plate).
But we also take into account that a local guide knows where to find the animals.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lundi 21 juin<\/strong>
Notre chauffeur Said<\/strong> vient nous chercher apr\u00e8s le petit d\u00e9jeuner et commence par nous faire visiter Arusha.<\/strong>
Premi\u00e8re \u00e9tape au Centre Culturel <\/strong>repr\u00e9sentant toutes formes d\u2019artisanat africain.
Les pi\u00e8ces pr\u00e9sent\u00e9es sont toutes de pures merveilles et on pourrait y passer la journ\u00e9e sans se lasser.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today Said our super friendly energetic and knowledgeable guide an driver picks us up and we start with a visit of Arusha.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

First the Cultural Heritage Centre. Is is a huge size exhibition of African art. There are paintings, furniture and masques as well as statues from wood, metal or stone and all sorts of other objects. All of them of extraordinary beauty! We stayed for more than an hour and didn\u2019t seen half of what is there. We will definitely come back to see more! (And also to buy a table 😇).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sylke<\/strong> ayant envie d\u2019acheter des sous-plats d\u2019artisanat Massa\u00ef,<\/strong> Said nous emm\u00e8ne dans un quartier de la ville d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 cet art.
Elle y trouve son bonheur assez rapidement malgr\u00e9 une offre abondante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We continue with a Masai crafts market where we buy a set of placemats. Michel demonstrates his good negotiation skills. We pay about half of what the Masai woman asked at the beginning. I myself have absolutely no talent for this. I feel sorry for the hard working women and would probably end up paying more than what they ask.<\/em> 🥴<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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En route maintenant pour notre lodge \u00ab Maramboi tented Camp <\/strong>\u00bb tout au bord du lac Manyara,<\/strong> depuis laquelle nous allons visiter le parc de Tarangire<\/strong> durant la journ\u00e9e de demain.
L\u2019endroit est sublime et tout en sirotant notre gin-tonic depuis le bar, quelques gnous paissent tranquillement \u00e0 quelques m\u00e8tres devant nous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At our first lodge<\/strong> \u201cMaramboi<\/strong>\u201d, we pleasantly dive into African wilderness ambiance<\/strong> sitting at the open lounge with a gin tonic in our hand watching zebras and wildebeest grazing close by.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Une d\u00e9coupe de l’Afrique avec au milieu \u00e0 droite la Tanzanie, dont la petite tache claire repr\u00e9sente l’endroit o\u00f9 nous nous trouvons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An African shaped window <\/strong>with a patch for Tanzania gives yo an idea whereabout we are. See how close the animals are on the other side!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Un passage au bord de la piscine s’impose, afin d’admirer le coucher de soleil, avant de passer \u00e0 table.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The African night falls quickly accompanied by the typical surrounding sound of humming insects, chirping night birds, a lion roaring in the distance, chucking hyenas and a bellowing wildebeests.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mardi 22 juin<\/strong>
Petit-d\u00e9jeuner \u00e0 06h00.
On va partir t\u00f4t, pour une visite du parc Tarangire<\/strong>.
Ce parc entoure la vall\u00e9e de la rivi\u00e8re Tarangire et pr\u00e9sente une forme allong\u00e9e de pr\u00e8s de 100 kilom\u00e8tres de long pour 30 de large.
Said<\/strong> nous conduit \u00e0 travers cet \u00e9cosyst\u00e8me de steppe massa\u00ef durant toute la journ\u00e9e, nous faisant d\u00e9couvrir cet endroit privil\u00e9gi\u00e9 par une grande communaut\u00e9 d\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9phants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We are at Manyara lake at the border of the Tarangire National Park<\/strong> in particular known for its numerous elephants.
The park is 100km long and 30km large with the river Tarangire in the middle.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mercredi 23 juin<\/strong>
A quelques 150 kilom\u00e8tres au nord du lac Manyara se trouve le lac Natron.<\/strong>
Lac sal\u00e9, d\u2019origine tectonique, il a une profondeur moyenne de 2 m\u00e8tres.
Ses eaux, riches en micro-nutriments, attirent une importante communaut\u00e9 de flamants nains qui se r\u00e9galent d\u2019algues bleues et qui s\u2019y reproduisent et y nidifient.
Pour y acc\u00e9der, nous entrons dans les r\u00e9gions occup\u00e9es par le peuple Massa\u00ef.<\/strong>
Peuple de bergers, les Massa\u00ef \u00e9taient autrefois nomades mais deviennent de plus en plus s\u00e9dentaires.
Ils restent cependant fortement ancr\u00e9s dans leurs traditions et vivent encore dans des rondavels<\/strong> (huttes rondes en torchis) concentr\u00e9es en villages et prot\u00e9g\u00e9es des animaux sauvages par une cl\u00f4ture en bois ou par un tressage de branches d\u2019acacias aux longues \u00e9pines ac\u00e9r\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

150km north from here very secluded lays the lake Natron<\/strong> right at the border with Kenya. It is a mineral rich soda lake and despite its alkaline states (pH 10!) it is feeding and breeding ground for hundreds of thousands of flamingos. 
The territory is owned by the Masai. Once nomads they are becoming sedentary now, but still stick to their distinct customs and dresses. The Masai are famous for their fearsome reputations as warriors. Their traditional lifestyle<\/a> centres around their cattle<\/a>, and all of the Maasai\u2019s needs for food are met by their cattle. They eat the meat, drink the milk daily, and drink the blood on occasion.
The measure of a man’s wealth is in terms of cattle and children. A herd of 50 cattle is respectable, and the more children the better. A man who has plenty of one but not the other is considered to be poor.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

A typical Masai village<\/strong> with rondavels and a surrounding wooden fence.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Arriv\u00e9s \u00e0 Massai Girafe Camp<\/strong>, notre destination du jour, Pedro<\/strong>, notre guide Massa\u00ef va nous accompagner pour une balade de fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Engero Sero waterfalls<\/strong><\/em>, une jolie cascade au pied de laquelle nous pourrons faire trempette.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pedro our Masai guide leads us to the Engero Sero waterfalls<\/strong>, which flow over craggy rocks into a natural pool. We walk trough the fall into a small gorge where we swim in gentle rapids. Very beautiful!<\/span><\/em>
The lush vegetation around the waterfall is contrasting with the arid area around the lake.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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En chemin, nous rencontrons quelques femmes Massa\u00ef terminant leur lessive qu\u2019elles ont mis \u00e0 s\u00e9cher sur les pierres r\u00e9chauff\u00e9es par le soleil.
Masai women doing the washing and children playing in and around the river.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jeudi 24 juin<\/strong>
Balade au lever du jour jusqu\u2019aux abords du lac Natron<\/strong>.
Ayant beaucoup plu ces derniers mois, le lac atteint un niveau exceptionnellement haut, et de ce fait, les nutriments y sont dilu\u00e9s et offrent moins d\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat pour les flamants.
Une petite communaut\u00e9 d\u2019une centaine d\u2019individus est cependant pr\u00e9sente pour nous accueillir lorsque l’astre du jour se pr\u00e9sente \u00e0 l’horizon.

Very early we walk from our lodge \u201cMassai Girafe Camp\u201d to Lake Natron <\/strong>for sunrise. Unfortunately it is not the right season to see the big flocks of flamingos, neither for the deep red color of the lake since unusual heavy rains from the rainy season have diluted the water.
Never mind, there are some of the flamingos<\/strong> and the whole atmosphere is peaceful beauty.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La cendre volcanique<\/a> de la vall\u00e9e du Grand Rift<\/a> est recueillie dans des bassins<\/a> comme celui de lac Natron, o\u00f9 l’important taux d’\u00e9vaporation laisse derri\u00e8re lui des d\u00e9p\u00f4ts de trona et de natron. Ces deux min\u00e9raux<\/a> alcalins participent \u00e0 \u00e9lever le pH de l’eau jusqu’\u00e0 10.5, un seuil proche de celui d’une solution d’ammoniaque<\/a>.
Ceci a pour effet de litt\u00e9ralement momifier les animaux qui n’ont pas r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 s’adapter \u00e0 ce milieux des plus hostile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The high mineral concentration<\/strong> in the lake literally petrifies dead animals.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Deux enfants Massa\u00ef, curieux de notre pr\u00e9sence viennent nous dire bonjour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Curious Masai kids<\/span><\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le Ol Doinyo Lengai <\/strong>(la montagne de Dieu) que l\u2019on voit en arri\u00e8re fond est le troisi\u00e8me plus haut volcan de Tanzanie, apr\u00e8s le Kilimanjaro<\/strong> et le Mt Meru<\/strong>.
Il est le seul encore actif et on peut apercevoir son lac de lave au fond de son crat\u00e8re profond de 600 m\u00e8tres, pour autant que l\u2019on ait l\u2019\u00e9nergie de gravir les 2000 m\u00e8tres de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 qui sont n\u00e9cessaires pour atteindre son sommet qui culmine \u00e0 2962 m\u00e8tres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The whole landscape is dominated by the still active volcano \u201cOl Doinyo Lengai\u201d<\/strong> (mountain of god) with its 3188m. It is part of the volcanic system of the East African Rift<\/a> and last erupted in 1960. If you want to hike the 6 hours and 2000m to the top you need to do this during the night as the black stone heats up too much during the day. <\/span>

The stark scenery is beautiful in its simplicity.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Retour \u00e0 la lodge pour le petit d\u00e9jeuner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Well deserved breakfast at Masai Giraffe lodge<\/strong> our lodge,<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Avant de partir, on fait encore une petite visite aux femmes Massai pour leur acheter quelques bracelets de perles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where we also by some lovely bracelets from a group of Masai women.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Longue journ\u00e9e pour rejoindre Whisper tented camp,<\/strong> le site propri\u00e9t\u00e9 de Genevi\u00e8ve<\/strong>.
Ici, la tente principale<\/strong> qui fait office de r\u00e9ception et de restaurant.
Les clients, quand \u00e0 eux sont log\u00e9s dans 7 autres tentes qui compl\u00e8tent l’offre du camp.
Celui-ci \u00e9tant non cl\u00f4tur\u00e9, il faut, d\u00e8s la nuit tomb\u00e9e, se faire accompagner par un Massa\u00ef arm\u00e9 de sa lance et de sa puissante lampe torche, pour rejoindre notre tente ou venir au restaurant.
Toute les nuits, nous entendrons le rugissement des lions et le ricanement des hy\u00e8nes.
Nous allons y passer les 3 prochains jours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From here Sa\u00efd drives us west to the Serengeti and the Whisper Tented Camp <\/span><\/strong>where we will stay for the next 3 days.
Whisper is a perfect mixture of simple yet luxurious. There are only 7 individual tents and one common area\/restaurant tent. The whole is set up in the middle of the bush and we hear hyenas and lions every night very close by! Food is delicious and the staff is super friendly! Is situated in central Serengeti on 15min away from the airport.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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En chemin, deux rapaces ont retenu notre attention.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hawk and eagle along the road<\/span><\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vendredi 25 juin<\/strong>
On passe la journ\u00e9e en safari dans le parc du Serengeti<\/strong>.
La plaine du Serengeti est une savane de 60\u2019000 km2 (donc plus grande que la Suisse) qui se trouve \u00e0 cheval sur la Tanzanie et le Kenya.
Serengeti signifie \u00ab plaine sans fin en langue massa\u00ef <\/strong>\u00bb
Elle est surtout connue pour les grandes migrations de millions d\u2019herbivores.
Chaque ann\u00e9e, en octobre, plus de deux millions de ceux-ci migrent des collines du nord vers les plaines du sud, traversant la rivi\u00e8re Mara<\/strong> avant de reprendre le chemin inverse au mois d\u2019avril.
Pr\u00e8s de 250\u2019000 b\u00eates ne survivent pas \u00e0 ce voyage de 800 kilom\u00e8tres et meurent d\u2019\u00e9puisement ou sont pr\u00e9lev\u00e9es par des pr\u00e9dateurs.
Nous voyons d\u00e9j\u00e0 des centaines de z\u00e8bres converger vers un m\u00eame point en vue du prochain d\u00e9part.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Said takes us on safari through Serengeti the whole next day.
Serengeti protected area <\/span><\/strong>includes roughly 30\u2019000km2 (3\/4 of the size of Switzerland). It is renown for its large lion population and the great migration<\/span><\/strong> of wildebeests, zebras and gazelles. Led by the zebras roughly 2 million animals follow a circular route<\/span><\/strong> between southern Serengeti in Tanzania and the Masai Mara reserve further north in Kenya. This migration is a natural yearly phenomenon determined by the availability of grazing. 
While we are here zebras and wildebeest have started grouping and are beginning to move north.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Voici quelques sc\u00e8nes rencontr\u00e9es au hasard de notre visite.
Here a selection of what we saw today:<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vers les 14 heures, Said<\/strong>, notre chauffeur guide, se fait prendre dans une petite d\u00e9pression du terrain cach\u00e9 par les herbes lors d\u2019une manoeuvre en marche arri\u00e8re.
Il enclenche alors le 4×4 sur le v\u00e9hicule et oh! surprise, plus de transmission m\u00e9canique aux roues malgr\u00e9 toutes les tentatives effectu\u00e9es sur les leviers.
Bien s\u00fbr, pas de r\u00e9seau t\u00e9l\u00e9phonique \u00e0 cet endroit.
Finalement, Said monte sur le toit du v\u00e9hicule et r\u00e9ussit \u00e0 accrocher un signal, ce qui lui permet d’atteindre l\u2019une de ses connaissances qui va partir \u00e0 notre recherche.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Just in case we needed more entertainment our car gets stuck in a swamp<\/strong>. Obviously at a location furthest away from all traffic and without phone coverage. 
Well, we have lots of water and some leftovers from our picnic but how long will it take until someone drives through this secondary route? Spending the night here would be rather uncomfortable and cold.<\/span><\/em> 🤔<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Parall\u00e8lement, Michel envoie aussi un SMS \u00e0 Genevi\u00e8ve \u00e0 l\u2019aide de notre balise satellite inReach.
Le message passe sans probl\u00e8me et elle envoie \u00e9galement un deuxi\u00e8me v\u00e9hicule de son c\u00f4t\u00e9.
Ce sera finalement celui de Said qui, apr\u00e8s un peu plus de 3 heures d\u2019attente, viendra nous remorquer pour notre retour \u00e0 la lodge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finally Said is able to connect his phone from the roof of the car and Michel sends a satellite message to Genevi\u00e8ve our tour organizer. Two cars are sent to our rescue and the first finds us 3 hours later, just before sunset. The time has passed really quick and I think our rescue teams were actually more stressed than us! <\/span><\/em>🙃<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Samedi 26 juin<\/strong>
Safari p\u00e9destre au d\u00e9part de la lodge au programme ce matin.
Sortie de 3 heures pour laquelle nous sommes accompagn\u00e9s par Leo le ranger<\/strong>, arm\u00e9 de son fusil et d\u2019Altaretoi<\/strong>, notre guide Massai.

The next morning we have a walking safari on the program. We leave early morning with a Masai guide and an armed ranger. We joke that we will see at least one lion, which is very unlikely.
5 minutes later our guide spots a buffalo not far away and suddenly we see a lioness chasing it! Close to this we see two heads popping up and two more lioness\u2019 observe us. They both leave but two more appear. We finally count 7 of them. 😲
Our ranger says that we don\u2019t really count as pray for them. But I think 7 of them together may have a different opinion. The whole thing happened not more than 100m away from us, but luckily there is a river between them and us and lions don\u2019t really like water!
The rest of the walk is less agitated and we enjoy the sight of a group of giraffes, impalas and a big heron.
We really enjoyed this! Quite a different experience to sitting in a car.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Apr\u00e8s \u00e0 peine 15 minutes de marche, nos regards sont attir\u00e9s par un mouvement dans la savane.
Nous apercevons alors une lionne chassant un buffle, qui \u00e9tait venu s\u2019abreuver \u00e0 la rivi\u00e8re toute proche.
En observant d\u2019un peu plus pr\u00e8s, nous finissons par apercevoir sept lionnes qui sont tapies dans les herbes et qui, nous ayant aper\u00e7u, se l\u00e8vent les unes apr\u00e8s les autres pour se mettre hors de port\u00e9e de notre vue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Impalas et h\u00e9ron compl\u00e8terons cette sortie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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L\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi est consacr\u00e9 \u00e0 une sortie en voiture dans le Serengeti.
La chance nous sourit avec cette famille de lions qui nous offrent un spectacle famillial ravissant.
Another car safari is planned for the afternoon and Said finds more lions for us: 😁<\/span><\/em>

Bon, va falloir que je m’occupe des petits !
Mama Simba regroups her little ones<\/span><\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mais o\u00f9 es-ce qu’ils sont pass\u00e9s ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ah, en voil\u00e0 un !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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– Dis, t’as pas vu tes fr\u00e8res et soeurs ?
– Si,si, regarde, ils sont l\u00e0 bas !
– Ok, je vais aller les chercher.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ah, vous voil\u00e0 !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bon, allez, va falloir vous bouger !
Il faut que l’on trouve quelque chose \u00e0 se mettre sous la dent !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dimanche 27 juin<\/strong>
C\u2019est notre derni\u00e8re journ\u00e9e dans les parcs du nord de la Tanzanie et c\u2019est le tour de la Caldera du Ngorongoro<\/strong> de recevoir notre visite.
The last day of our safari brings us to the famous Ngorgoro crater.<\/span><\/em>

Cette caldera de 21 kilom\u00e8tres de long pour 18 de large a une profondeur de 600 m\u00e8tres.
Il y a environ 2,5 million d\u2019ann\u00e9es, l\u2019explosion d\u2019un volcan g\u00e9ant a vu son c\u00f4ne s\u2019 effondrer, formant cette plaine de plus de 220 km2.
Elle offre un terrain id\u00e9al pour l\u2019ensemble des animaux sauvages, qui trouvent ici de quoi se nourrir tout au long de l’ann\u00e9e.

The Ngorongoro Crater is part of a conservation area. It is the world’s largest inactive, intact and unfilled volcanic caldera. The crater, which formed when a large volcano exploded and collapsed on itself two to three million years ago, is 610 metres deep and roughly 20km in diameter.
The crater floor is 1,800 metres (5,900 feet) above sea level and is home to a large number of wild animals. 
To enter the crater we have to descend from the crater rim. Just like the elephants that unlike most of the animal don\u2019t find enough food here for the whole year.
You can see the crater wall in the distance on the below picture with a long cloud hovering above it. 
Quite an amazing geography!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pour changer des gros animaux, cette grue royale nous a parus fort attrayante et m\u00e9rite bien d\u2019\u00eatre immortalis\u00e9e.
An elegant group of golden-crowned cranes.<\/span><\/em>
Besides many other animals we even see two rhinos confronting each other! But too far for a pic. 😢<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Nous terminons la journ\u00e9e dans le Ngorongoro forest tented camp<\/strong>.
Plut\u00f4t qu’une simple douche pour nous d\u00e9poussi\u00e9rer, un passage au jacuzzi avec vue nous est propos\u00e9.

In the evening we are as usual covered in dust. But this time we not only take a shower, but also enjoy a jacuzzi with a view! 🤩<\/span><\/em>
Live is good to us!!!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Lundi 28 juin<\/strong>
Cette journ\u00e9e marque la fin de notre safari.
Nous quittions d\u00e9finitivement la r\u00e9gion des parcs pour rejoindre l\u2019a\u00e9rodrome de Manyara d\u2019o\u00f9 un petit avion \u00e0 h\u00e9lice d\u2019une dizaine de places nous ram\u00e8ne \u00e0 Arusha<\/strong> et \u00e0 la Karama Lodge <\/strong>que nous avions d\u00e9j\u00e0 visit\u00e9e pour notre premi\u00e8re nuit de safari.

Our safari trip is already over! And a tiny plane brings us back to Arusha. <\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mardi 29 juin<\/strong>
Journ\u00e9e plac\u00e9e sous le signe de la tristesse.
Sylke va rentrer en Suisse<\/strong> en urgence aujourd\u2019hui et rallier l\u2019Allemagne dans la foul\u00e9e, sa maman \u00e9tant tr\u00e8s malade.
Michel<\/strong> quand \u00e0 lui va passer au Kenya<\/strong> et rejoindre Mombasa<\/strong> afin d\u2019organiser le rapatriement de l\u2019Azala\u00ef par porte-conteneur avant de prendre l\u2019avion pour son retour en Suisse.
Apr\u00e8s une longue r\u00e9flexion, nous avons d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de mettre un terme \u00e0 notre d\u00e9couverte de l’Afrique.
La Namibie, ainsi que l’Afrique du Sud, \u00e9tant \u00e0 nouveau en lockdown partiel apr\u00e8s l’apparition du variant indien du Covid sur leur territoire, nous ne savons pas trop comment la situation va \u00e9voluer par ici.
Autant avoir notre Azala\u00ef pr\u00e8s de nous pour la suite de nos projets.
N’ayant pas pu rentrer par la route en passant par l’\u00c9thiopie, le Soudan (ces deux pays \u00e9tant en guerre), l’Arabie saoudite, Oman, Turquie, Gr\u00e8ce, ex Yougoslavie……nous imaginons faire le trajet \u00e0 l’envers, depuis la Suisse vers Oman.
La visite du continent nord am\u00e9ricain est aussi une option qui nous tente…..et pourquoi pas l’Asie?
Il y a tant de pays int\u00e9ressants \u00e0 d\u00e9couvrir !!!

Sadly our Africa trip ends here a little earlier than planned.
I take a flight back home today since my mother is very ill. 
Michel continues to Mombasa to ship the Azala\u00ef back to Switzerland and will take a flight home from there.
After long reflections we have decided to terminate our Africa travel now.
With the new Covid variants and a new lockdown of several countries in Southern Africa we are not sure what the near future brings to Eastern Africa. So we prefer to have the Azala\u00ef accessible with us in CH.
It is sad that we can\u2019t pursue our plans to drive back home via Ethiopia, Sudan, Oman, Iran, etc, but who knows, maybe when all its calmed down we do it the other way round and drive from CH to Oman. 
Or we go to Canada and Alaska instead? And how about Asia? 🤔<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ici, une image repr\u00e9sentant la route que nous avons suivie avec les diff\u00e9rents points de chute.

Here a map as overview for our travel. 6 weeks Zambia, 7 weeks Tanzania and 1 week Kenya for Michel. Each green triangle represents a stop of one or more nights.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Epilogue<\/strong>
Ces trois mois pass\u00e9s en Zambie<\/strong> d\u2019abord et en Tanzanie<\/strong> ensuite nous ont beaucoup plu.
La gentillesse et l’accueil des personnes que nous avons eu l\u2019occasion de rencontrer nous a fait chaud au coeur.
Vivant pourtant avec moins de 2 Dollars par jour, le 90% de ce peuple garde le sourire et reste positif.
Certainement que le climat n’y est pas \u00e9tranger, car la nature est tr\u00e8s g\u00e9n\u00e9reuse \u00e0 leur \u00e9gard, en leur fournissant gratuitement une nourriture abondante et saine.
En \u00e9changeant avec eux, nous avons beaucoup appris sur leur mani\u00e8re de vivre, de penser et de se comporter et ceci nous a permis de revoir certains pr\u00e9jug\u00e9s que nous avions avant de les connaitre un peu mieux.
Nous avions pr\u00e9vu de passer encore un mois au Kenya<\/strong> avant de rentrer en Suisse mais les circonstances \u00e9tant ce qu’elles sont, l’Azala\u00ef est charg\u00e9 dans son conteneur pour son retour en Suisse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

During the last 3 months we have seen a lot of Zambia and Tanzania and met so many kind and welcoming people. In particular the lively Tanzanians got close to our heart.
We have learned a lot about the challenges the people and the two countries face, and we deeply experienced, their for us so unfamiliar culture.
There is plenty that we Europeans, for a more relaxed life, could learn from these heart warming, cheerful, creative champions in fire fighting.
As well as they could learn from us for a more comfortable existence.
However, from what we see, both is unlikely to happen quickly.
But who knows what the future brings?
Hakuna Matata! 😀<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00c0 toutes et tous, nous vous souhaitons un bel \u00e9t\u00e9 et vous disons:
\u00c0 bient\u00f4t pour nos prochaines aventures !

Amiti\u00e9s de Milke<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

From Dar Es Salaam to Arusha Mardi 1er juinDe retour de Zanzibar, nous sommes invit\u00e9s par Carole et Kizito pour le repas du soir.C’est Kizito qui se met aux fourneaux et nous concocte un d\u00e9licieux repas traditionnel.Apr\u00e8s cette fort sympathique … Continuer la lecture →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_s2mail":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6462","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6462","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6462"}],"version-history":[{"count":50,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6462\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6724,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6462\/revisions\/6724"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6462"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6462"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6462"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}