{"id":5771,"date":"2019-10-09T17:50:14","date_gmt":"2019-10-09T15:50:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/?p=5771"},"modified":"2019-10-09T17:53:38","modified_gmt":"2019-10-09T15:53:38","slug":"botswana","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/botswana\/","title":{"rendered":"BOTSWANA"},"content":{"rendered":"

Samedi 31ao\u00fbt
\n<\/b>Nous voil\u00e0 de retour au Botswana<\/b> pour une dur\u00e9e de 5 semaines, durant lesquelles nous allons avoir l\u2019occasion d\u2019en d\u00e9couvrir les diff\u00e9rentes facettes.<\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s un passage de fronti\u00e8re assez particulier, car il faut traverser la rivi\u00e8re Limpopo<\/b> qui fait la s\u00e9paration de l\u2019Afrique du Sud avec le Botswana.
\nCela n\u2019est possible qu\u2019en p\u00e9riode s\u00e8che, ce qui est le cas aujourd\u2019hui.
\nC\u2019est donc sans mouiller les pneus que nous atteignons le poste botswanais.<\/p>\n

As mentioned at the end of our last article, on Aug. 31 we cross the border<\/strong> from South Africa<\/strong> to Botswana<\/strong> at Pont Drift<\/strong>. Here the Limpopo river is the border between both countries. At the moment the river bed is completely dry and we simply drive through to get from one country to the other.
\n<\/span><\/em>In the rainy season this boarder is closed for cars since the Limpopo is a big river then, and the only option to cross is a very small pedestrian cable cabin that can be pulled across.
\n<\/span><\/em>Sound adventurous with all the crocodiles in the river.<\/em> <\/span>😲<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les formalit\u00e9s r\u00e9gl\u00e9es en un clin d\u2019oeil car nous sommes les seuls \u00e0 cet instant, nous allons profiter d\u2019\u00eatre dans le coin pour aller jeter un coup d\u2019oeil sur une curiosit\u00e9 g\u00e9ologique.
\nLe \u00ab\u00a0Mur de Solomon\u00a0<\/b>\u00bb
\nCette formation, sous forme de muraille, cr\u00e9\u00e9e au cours des mouvements de la cro\u00fbte terrestre, bloquait le cours d’un affluent de la rivi\u00e8re Limpopo, ce qui a eu comme cons\u00e9quence de former un lac de barrage.
\nA un moment donn\u00e9, la pression de l\u2019eau est devenue trop forte et le barrage a c\u00e9d\u00e9, provoquant l’inondation de la r\u00e9gion.<\/p>\n

The advantage of choosing a small border post is the simplicity and the speed of the procedure. But here we pay for this with a badly maintained, very dusty gravel road with lots of pot holes on the Botswana side.
\n<\/span><\/em>Never mind, this is part of the adventure and our Azala\u00ef continues to take it all without any issues!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

In Botswana<\/strong> we will now spend the last 5 weeks<\/strong> of our 2019 Africa trip. Apparently here we will find the ultimate bush and wildlife experience<\/strong>. The parks are immense and they are not fenced. So theoretically you could come across a lion or an elephant anytime anywhere (inside or outside the parks). Sounds good to us<\/em> 😊<\/span><\/p>\n

Coming from Out Africa we are in the far south-east of Botswana and have to travers all the country to get to Kasane in the north where we will enter the area of the great national parks. This will take us 2 days of driving and we only visit \u00ab\u00a0Solomons Wall<\/strong>\u00a0\u00bb, a geologic curiosity, on the way.
\n<\/span>Solomons Wall is the remnants of a 30m high<\/strong> and 10m wide natural basalt wall<\/strong>, which once formed a dam across the Motloutse River, holding back a great lake. The two ends of this barrier still guard each side of the river valley.<\/span>
\nThe photos show the left and the right side of the remaining wall.<\/span>
\nWe are inside a private Game Park. So no getting out of the car and climbing the wall. It is far too hot anyway.
\nAnd sorry, no elephant or lion in sight \ud83d\ude09<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s avoir pass\u00e9 dans cet espace, nous poursuivons la piste cahoteuse sur quelques kilom\u00e8tres encore avant de retrouver une route goudronn\u00e9e qui nous permettra d\u2019avancer plus rapidement en direction du Nord.<\/p>\n

Juste apr\u00e8s la petite ville de Selebi Phikwe<\/b>, et vu qu\u2019il est d\u00e9j\u00e0 4 heures de l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, nous prenons l\u2019option de nous arr\u00eater \u00e0 la \u00ab\u00a0Pokoje Bush Lodge\u00a0<\/b>\u00bb, car nous nous voyons bien, install\u00e9s sur une terrasse, \u00e0 siroter un gin-tonic bien frais.<\/p>\n

Dimanche 1er septembre
\n<\/b>On remonte encore de 400 kilom\u00e8tres en direction de Kasane<\/b> et, peu apr\u00e8s la ville de Nata<\/b>, nous retrouvons l\u2019endroit que nous avions choisis i y a 1 mois, lorsque nous nous dirigions vers le Sud, pour passer une nuit au milieu de la savane avec pour seul compagnon, un bon feu de camp et un ciel vierge de toute pollution lumineuse.<\/p>\n

Lundi 2 septembre
\n<\/b>Arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 la Chobe Safari Lodge de Kasane<\/b> en d\u00e9but d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, que nous passons tranquillement sur la terrasse du restaurant en finalisant notre 5\u00e8me article que nous allons poster demain sur notre blog.<\/p>\n

La lodge dispose d’un spa<\/strong> et cet avantage a bien \u00e9t\u00e9 compris par ce phacoch\u00e8re<\/strong> qui se laisse dorloter par quelques mangoustes<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Monday September 2nd we arrive in Kasana<\/strong> and check into Chobe river lodge<\/strong> campground where we will stay for the next three days to poste our last article and to start visiting the Chobe National Parc<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em>
\nThe lodge is beautifully built right at the Chobe river with a deck over the river a big swimming pool, and a SPA.<\/span><\/em>
\nThe SPA<\/strong> is apparently also used by the free roaming animals as demonstrated here by a relaxed warthog and its mongoose cleaning team<\/strong> (probably picking off parasites).<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Mardi 3 septembre
\n<\/b>Plut\u00f4t que de passer encore une journ\u00e9e assis dans l\u2019Azala\u00ef pour visiter le parc national de Chobe<\/strong>, nous choisissons une option par la voie fluviale.
\nC\u2019est ainsi, qu\u2019\u00e0 15 heures, nous embarquons \u00e0 bord d\u2019un bateau \u00e0 fond plat et entamons la descente de la rivi\u00e8re Chobe<\/b> \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte de la faune du parc.<\/p>\n

The next day we join a Chobe river cruise<\/strong> to see fauna and flora once from a different angle. We are not really used to bigger group organisation as done for the cruise here but still decide to give it a try.<\/span><\/em>
\nGood decision! Not only that the temperature on the river is very pleasant (it starts to get hot here with T around 34C every day!), but we do see a lot of animals and the guide shares a lot of information about the animals and the area.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Embarquement.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Des bateaux “Sp\u00e9cial photographes” avec chaises tournantes et supports sont aussi de la partie.
\nYou can also book a photo safari including camera, rotating seat etc<\/span><\/em> 😲<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Tr\u00e8s vite, le spectacle commence avec les premiers oiseaux.
\nUne cigogne \u00e0 bec-ouvert.<\/p>\n

An Open Billed Stork<\/strong>. The open bill is not a malformation but the ideal tool to break the shells of river snails and clams.<\/span><\/em>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Celui-l\u00e0 c’est l’Ibis Mycteria.
\nA Yellow Billed Stork<\/strong>.
\n<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Il y a bien-s\u00fbr d’autres animaux qui habitent les berges de la rivi\u00e8re.
\nComme ce crocodile qui se r\u00e9chauffe au soleil.<\/p>\n

Did you know that you can\u2019t tell the sex of a crocodile<\/strong> by its look? So the bigger, mean looking ones are not necessarily the males.\u00a0<\/em><\/span>😉<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ou cet \u00e9l\u00e9phant qui peine un peu \u00e0 remonter la pente.
\nApparently elephants<\/strong> are the only mammals on earth that can not jump. So to get out of their mud bath can be tricky.<\/span><\/em> 😂<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les hippopotames pr\u00e9sentent quelque fois de bons perchoirs.
\nHippos<\/strong> can stay up to 6 minutes under water. They don\u2019t actually swim, they walk under water.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Lui, il doit d’abord se s\u00e9cher les ailes avant de pouvoir s’envoler \u00e0 nouveau.
\nAn African Darter\u00a0<\/strong>that uses its very pointy beak to spear fishes under water.<\/span><\/em>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s quasi 3 heures de navigation, il est temps de passer au bar …..
\nAnd finally a gin tonic for the sunset<\/strong><\/span><\/em> 😋\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

…….et de s’installer confortablement pour admirer le coucher de soleil sous diff\u00e9rents angles.
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Mercredi 4 septembre
\n<\/b>Journ\u00e9e d\u00e9tente \u00e0 la lodge.<\/p>\n

Jeudi 5 septembre
\n<\/b>L\u2019\u00e9tape du jour consiste \u00e0 descendre jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Mwanti Lodge<\/strong> en longeant la rivi\u00e8re Chobe<\/strong>.
\nDe nombreux animaux profitent du bonheur d\u2019avoir de l\u2019eau \u00e0 disposition.
\nD\u2019autres, comme les f\u00e9lins, trouvent quant \u00e0 eux de la viande fra\u00eeche \u00e0 profusion.<\/p>\n

Today we drive along the Chobe river<\/strong> from east to west. The river represents the boarder between Botswana in the south and Namibia in the north. The Botswana side is a National Park, the Namibian side is farm land.
\n<\/span><\/span><\/em>From where we drive we can sometimes see cows on one side and wild animals on the other. And sometimes zebras cross the river and peacefully mix with the cows.
\n<\/span>The Chobe river carries water all year round and is an essential source for the abundant wildlife here.\u00a0<\/span>The temperature climbs above 30\u00b0C in the shade now every day and the animals group under the few trees that still have leaves, for food and for shade..<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Et si on commen\u00e7ait \u00e0 parler des arbres:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Il y a l’arbre \u00e0 z\u00e8bres\"\"<\/a>.<\/p>\n

L’arbre \u00e0 Kudus
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L’arbre \u00e0 \u00e9l\u00e9phants
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L’arbre \u00e0 girafes
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L’arbre \u00e0 babouins
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L’arbre \u00e0 mangoustes
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L’arbre \u00e0 lion
\nLions<\/strong> after a feast on an elephant baby<\/strong><\/span> <\/em>🥺\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L’arbre \u00e0 impalas
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Et bien-s\u00fbr aussi l’arbre \u00e0 Azala\u00ef
\nAnd we also are a little desperate for shade<\/span><\/em> 🥵
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Vendredi 6 septembre
\n<\/b>Ayant suivi la premi\u00e8re partie de la rivi\u00e8re Chobe <\/b>hier, nous partons t\u00f4t ce matin afin de jouir d\u2019une bonne lumi\u00e8re et de temp\u00e9ratures agr\u00e9ables pour visiter le deuxi\u00e8me secteur de cette rivi\u00e8re.<\/p>\n

Samedi 7 septembre
\n<\/b>R\u00e9veil \u00e0 05h30 afin de nous mettre en route d\u00e8s l\u2019aurore.
\nLe but pour aujourd\u2019hui c\u2019est de rallier le site de\u00a0 <\/span>Savuti,<\/b> situ\u00e9 au milieu de la partie sud du parc national Chobe <\/b>et distant d\u2019une petite centaine de kilom\u00e8tres.
\nN\u2019ayant pas de r\u00e9servation dans le parc, il nous faut arriver avant 08h30 \u00e0 la porte de Goha <\/b>car sans r\u00e9servation, seul le transit journalier est permis.
\nNous partons d\u00e8s 06h00 car il faut tenir compte que les 50 derniers kilom\u00e8tres avant la porte sont \u00e0 faire sur une piste de sable profond.Arriv\u00e9s \u00e0 la porte, nous pr\u00e9tendons que nous allons transiter, tout en sachant que nous esp\u00e9rons bien trouver une place \u00e0 Savuti<\/b>.
\nCe jeune m\u00e2le semble nous souhaiter bon voyage.<\/p>\n

Today we leave our camp as early as possible. I.e. just before 6am in the dawn. (Driving at night is dangerous with all the animals and the potholes. Imagine you run into an elephant!)<\/span><\/em>
\nOur target is Savuti<\/strong> in the southern part of the Chobe National Park, famous for<\/strong> its good chance to see lions<\/strong>.
\n<\/span>We will enter the park via the Goha gate in the north and have to drive almost 2 hours to get there, half of it in (really!) deep sand.\u00a0Without a reservation in a lodge or campground (like us) you must cross the Park in one day which is estimated to take around 8h. To be able to do this you are only allowed to enter before 8:30 in the morning.<\/span><\/em>
\nWith low tire pressure, 4×4 and sometimes low gear we get to the gate at 7:45. Uff!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Friendly welcome at the gate<\/span> <\/em>😀\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Le vent souffle en temp\u00eate sur le parcours et l\u00e8ve des nuages de sable qui diluent le spectacle offert par la vie animale.
\nPeu avant l\u2019arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Savuti,<\/b> nous distinguons un groupe d\u2019impalas au comportement anormalement nerveux.<\/p>\n

Two hours later we arrive at the waterhole next to the campsite.<\/span><\/em>
\nIt is very windy today<\/strong> and the fine, white sand is everywhere. We feel sorry for the people in the few open safari vehicles we see.<\/span><\/em>
\nThe animals themselves don\u2019t seem to mind too much and the milky light<\/strong> creates a special atmosphere to the whole scenery.<\/span><\/em>
\nA group of impalas in front of us hesitates to access the waterhole and we assume that we are the cause. But suddenly we spot a lion couple<\/strong> at the opposite side.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

C\u2019est que, de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 du point d\u2019eau auquel ils aimeraient bien acc\u00e9der, un couple de lions amoureux s\u2019adonnent sans g\u00eane aux jeux de l\u2019amour.
\nApparently it is mating season<\/strong>.\u00a0We are super close and can\u2019t believe how lucky we are 😀 the lions simply don\u2019t care about us!<\/em><\/span>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Quelques dizaines de m\u00e8tres plus loin, tout \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 d\u2019un emplacement jonch\u00e9 d\u2019os d\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9phant…..
\nNext to us a heap of very big bones.<\/span><\/em>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

……un autre roi de la jungle dig\u00e8re son petit d\u00e9jeuner.
\nNot far another big lion has found a spot well protected from the wind and jealousy observes the couple.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Savuti<\/b> \u00e0 la r\u00e9putation de n\u00e9cessiter une ann\u00e9e au moins de r\u00e9servation anticip\u00e9e, tellement l\u2019endroit est populaire.
\nNous comptons sur notre ange gardien pour qu\u2019il nous trouve une place libre et c\u2019est exactement ce qui se passe quand nous nous pr\u00e9sentons\u00a0 <\/span>\u00e0 la r\u00e9ception.
\nUne place s\u2019est lib\u00e9r\u00e9e ce matin et nous arrivons juste au bon moment pour nous la voir attribu\u00e9e.
\nIl faudra que l\u2019on pense \u00e0 lui donner un pr\u00e9nom \u00e0 cet ange gardien !<\/p>\n

Savuti<\/strong> is famous for its lion sightings, which makes the campsite so popular that you need to book a year in advance. So when Michel planned our Botswana tour in May it was already fully booked. Nevertheless several people told us that it is worth to check on site if there is a last minute cancellation.
\n<\/span><\/em>And there is! Uff! This means we don\u2019t need to drive another 4 hours to get to the other end of the park. And we can return to observe the lions later this afternoon and if we are lucky one more time tomorrow before we leave !<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

And we are lucky again! On our afternoon tour we see a second lion couple firs feeding on an unfortunate elephant and then confirming that it really is mating\u00a0<\/i>season. T<\/i><\/span>his time they are literally only a couple of meters away.<\/i><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

En fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s midi, nous demandons encore un petit effort \u00e0 notre Azala\u00ef<\/b> pour nous emmener faire un tour dans le coin.
\nA la lumi\u00e8re orang\u00e9e du soleil couchant, nous avons encore le plaisir de voir un autre couple de lions se gavant des restes d’un jeune \u00e9l\u00e9phant tu\u00e9 peu avant.
\nEn les observant, ils nous donnent l’impression de nous conter une histoire:<\/p>\n

– Dis mon ch\u00e9ri ! T’as plus faim ?
\n– Non, j’ai trop mang\u00e9. J’ai l’estomac un peu lourd.<\/em>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

– T’as pas envie de faire une balade, \u00e7a t’aiderait \u00e0 dig\u00e9rer !?
\n– Ah ouais! Bonne id\u00e9e.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

– Dis mon amour! \u00e7a te dirait un p’tit c\u00e2lin?
\n-Pourquoi pas apr\u00e8s tout !
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

-Mmmm, c’\u00e9tait pas mal !
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

-Viens voir mon ch\u00e9ri, j’ai vu un truc int\u00e9ressant juste l\u00e0.
\n-Ok! J’te suis.\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

-Tu vois l\u00e0, devant nous, \u00e7a s’appelle un Azala\u00ef<\/strong>. C’est avec \u00e7a que les humains voyagent pour venir nous reluquer.
\n–Ah ouais, \u00e7a a l’air cool !<\/em>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Dimanche 8 septembre
\n<\/b>Nous avions r\u00e9serv\u00e9 2 nuits \u00e0 Mankwe Camelthorn Campsites<\/b> au mois d\u2019avril d\u00e9j\u00e0 et c\u2019est l\u00e0 que nous nous rendons aujourd\u2019hui.
\nC\u2019est assez surprenant de se rendre compte de visu de ce que l\u2019on a imagin\u00e9 \u00e0 travers la r\u00e9servation effectu\u00e9e via internet depuis la maison.
\nTout sp\u00e9cialement, on a aucune vision de la qualit\u00e9 de la piste qui va se pr\u00e9senter et le temps qu\u2019il va falloir pour parcourir la distance.
\nC\u2019est ainsi que l\u2019on se rend compte que les pistes au Botswana <\/b>sont majoritairement faites de sable profond et que l\u2019on peut compter sur une moyenne de l\u2019ordre de 20 km\/h.
\nBon, pour en revenir \u00e0 nos moutons, Mankwe Camelthorn Campsites<\/b> se trouve au milieu de la savane, \u00e9loign\u00e9 de tout lieu habit\u00e9.
\nCe soir, nous entendons les hy\u00e8nes<\/b> \u00e9mettre leur \u00e9trange aboiement \u00e0 quelques dizaines de m\u00e8tres de notre position.<\/p>\n

The next two nights Michel has booked at Mankwe Camelthorn Campsite<\/strong>\u00a0“just” outside of the Chobe Park and also very close to the entrance of the Moremi Park. Only, if in Montagny on the map it looks like it is close to the entrance gates of both parks, we still have to drive a good hour each time.
\n<\/span>We simply have to admit that the sandy roads don\u2019t allow for more than 20 to 30 km per hour!
\n<\/span><\/em>Mankwe campsite is literally in the middle of nowhere!<\/strong> The lodge it belongs to is 3 km bad sand road away (10km\/h) and is in complete reconstruction. You better have everything you need with you (food, drinking water, Emurgency medication, etc).
\n<\/span><\/em>There are 3 camp sites dispersed into the bush (you don\u2019t see the others) and each has a little open air bathroom with flash toilet, bucket shower and a tab with slightly salty water that leaves your hand somewhat soapy.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Lundi 9 septembre
\n<\/b>Au r\u00e9veil, nous voyons que le sable autour de l\u2019Azala\u00ef est couvert d\u2019empreintes de hy\u00e8nes.
\nNous d\u00e9cidons de faire une journ\u00e9e de repos et sortons m\u00eame le jeu de boules et improvisons une partie de p\u00e9tanque, en oubliant pas d\u2019ouvrir une bouteille de vin blanc \u00e0 d\u00e9faut de pastis.<\/p>\n

Water is very scarce in the area and after the first night we find the bucket of water that serves to fill the shower bag turned over with hyena footprints around it.<\/span><\/em>
\nThis explains why we had heard the hyenas howling very close this night!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

We decide to spend the day around the campsite with cleaning, defrosting the fridge, reading and with a competition of p\u00e9tanque with a glass of<\/em> cold South African white whine<\/span> 😋\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s \u00e7a, une bonne douche s’impose.<\/p>\n

We finish the day with a bucket shower and a delicious\u00a0veggie curry.<\/i><\/span>
\nFor those who don\u2019t know a bucket shower: it means you fill some water into a bag (or bucket), than pull the bag up over the open shower room and either you wait a little for the water to warm up or you directly step underneath the bag and open the valve underneath the bag to take you shower.<\/span><\/em>
\nVery nature!<\/span> <\/em>😊<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Le soir, Michel imagine un stratag\u00e8me qui va lui permettre de photographier une hy\u00e8ne,<\/strong> lorsqu\u2019elle viendra r\u00f4der pr\u00e8s de nous durant la nuit.
\nComme la r\u00e9gion est plut\u00f4t s\u00e8che, il prend un bidon en m\u00e9tal qui traine dans le coin et le remplit d\u2019eau.
\nIl le place juste devant la fen\u00eatre le l\u2019Azala\u00ef en pensant que les hy\u00e8nes vont bien \u00eatre int\u00e9ress\u00e9es de venir boire un coup durant la nuit.
\nCa fonctionne! A minuit et demie, des lapements nous r\u00e9veillent et nous voyons avec plaisir deux hy\u00e8nes en train de s\u2019abreuver au bidon d\u2019eau.
\nL\u2019enclenchement de l\u2019appareil photo effraie toutefois l\u2019une d\u2019entre elle qui s\u2019enfuit en courant alors que l\u2019autre s\u2019\u00e9carte un peu et scrute l\u2019Azala\u00ef de ses yeux brillants.<\/p>\n

Before we go to bed Michel fillies the bucket with water and places it next to the Azala\u00ef.\u00a0Around midnight we hear a noise that sounds like a an animal that laps water.<\/span><\/em>
\nAnd indeed through the window we can see two hyenas at the bucket!<\/em> 😲<\/span>
\nOne runs away with the little noise we make. The other decides to profit a little more from the precious water and then runs off!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Mardi 10 septembre
\n<\/b>Nous entrons maintenant au coeur du delta de l\u2019Okavango.
\nLe delta de l’Okavango<\/b>, est le second plus grand delta int\u00e9rieur du monde (18\u00a0000\u00a0km2<\/sup>) apr\u00e8s le delta int\u00e9rieur du Niger (40\u00a0000\u00a0km2<\/sup> au maximum de son \u00e9tendue au Mali). Situ\u00e9 dans le nord du Botswana, la r\u00e9gion faisait jadis partie du lac Makgadikgadi<\/b>, disparu il y a environ 10\u00a0000\u00a0ans. Aujourd’hui l’Okavango n’a pas d’embouchure maritime. Il se d\u00e9verse dans le d\u00e9sert du Kalahari, irriguant 15\u00a0000\u00a0km2<\/sup> de celui-ci.
\nC\u2019est un paradis pour la faune et la flore qui trouvent l\u00e0 de l\u2019eau en abondance, m\u00eame pendant la saison s\u00e8che.
\nNous allons passer quelques jours dans la r\u00e9serve naturelle de Moremi.
\n<\/b>Inquiet de l’\u00e9puisement rapide de la faune et de la flore sur leurs terres ancestrales – en raison de la chasse non contr\u00f4l\u00e9e et de l’empi\u00e9tement du b\u00e9tail – le peuple Batawana<\/strong> de Ngamiland, sous l’impulsion de la veuve du chef Moremi,<\/strong> a pris l’initiative audacieuse de proclamer son territoire r\u00e9serve naturelle en 1963.
\nComme pr\u00e9vu, durant notre route de la porte nord au camp de Xakanaxa<\/b>, nous rencontrons une faune abondante.<\/p>\n

Dont ce bel hippopotame en train de se sustenter de bonne herbe fra\u00eeche.<\/p>\n

The next day we enter the Moremi Game Reserve<\/strong>, which covers the eastern part of the Okavango Delta<\/strong>.
\n<\/span>On the map the delta is shown as a pale blue hand with its fingers reaching south east.\u00a0It is the worlds second biggest inland delta covering up to 15\u2019000 square km and represents a natural phenomenon of immense scale:
\n<\/span>At the beginning of the dry season the delta floods, spreading out to almost double its normal size. The flood cycle starts every year with the heavy summer rainfalls in the Angola highlands far to the north-east of Botswana. Combined with smaller rivers the waters of the Okavango river swell and flow more than a thousand km until their course is halted by a tectonic trough, and some 11 cubic km (!) of water soak into the delta.<\/span><\/em>
\nThis resulting revitalization of the immense otherwise dry area attracts an incredible amount of wildlife.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

We will stay several days in Moremi and already on the way to our first campsite Xacanaxa we see many animals.<\/span><\/em>
\nDue to the very low rainfall this summer in Angola the delta is much dryer than\u00a0normally\u00a0at this time of the year. By chance both campsites that we have booked in Moremi are deep inside the delta and the water pools here are not dried up.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

La journ\u00e9e, toutefois, rev\u00eat un \u00e9v\u00e9nement qui va rester grav\u00e9 dans nos souvenirs pour longtemps.
\nAlors que nous effectuons une sortie en fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte des animaux sauvages qui peuplent le parc, un moment de distraction fait d\u00e9vier l\u2019Azala\u00ef de sa route, et la roue avant gauche monte sur une souche d\u2019arbre dont deux morceaux percent le pneu sur son flanc.
\nC\u2019est la toute premi\u00e8re crevaison<\/b> depuis que nous avons acquis l\u2019Azala\u00ef il y a d\u00e9j\u00e0 7 ans.
\nL\u2019endroit, qui se nomme \u00ab\u00a0les Etangs du paradis\u00a0<\/b>\u00bb est en plus mal choisi, car c\u2019est justement l\u00e0 que lions <\/b>et l\u00e9opards<\/b> ont l\u2019habitude de venir chasser.
\nDans l\u2019impossibilit\u00e9 de rentrer au camping avec un pneu crev\u00e9, Michel d\u00e9cide de sortir du v\u00e9hicule afin d\u2019essayer de sauver le pneu avec le kit de r\u00e9paration pendant que Sylke surveille les alentours et prend quelques photos pour immortaliser le moment.<\/p>\n

While we are looping around the Paradise Pools<\/strong> later this afternoon I overlook a rotten tree trunk<\/strong> on the road side and the left front tire runs over it and breaks it apart. Since we are not supposed to get out of the car anywhere else than the campground we continue. However, about 10min later I realize that the steering wheel heavily pulls to the left. I lean out of the window and shit! The tire is completely flat<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We quickly decide not to drive to the camping like this. But rather than mounting the spare wheel Michel remembers the tyre repair kit<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em>
\nWe are in a relatively open area and have about 1 hour before sun set. We decide to give it a try. Michel does the work and I watch for any movement in the bush.<\/span><\/em>
\nIt is worth mentioning that we came to the Paradise Pools because lions and leopards are often spotted here hunting<\/em> 🥴😳🤭<\/span>
\nThe repair kit consists of several very sticky rubber strips that have to be pushed into the puncture with a special tool. Hard work but Michels insists and is able to push 3 of them into the two punctures of the\u00a0<\/i>partly re-inflated tyre.\u00a0<\/i><\/span><\/span>Once fully inflated the the tyre seems to keep the air, even though the glue that comes with the kit is dried out!<\/i> 😅 <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

La r\u00e9paration \u00e0 l\u2019air de tenir et nous rentrons sans d\u00e9lai jusqu\u2019au camping, contents que cet incident n\u2019ai pas eu de cons\u00e9quences f\u00e2cheuses.<\/p>\n

We even continue like this for the next 3 days on the very bumpy tracks here until we are back to civilization!<\/span><\/em>
\nAfter all it was a good test for how to use the repair kit.<\/em> 😁<\/span><\/p>\n

Mercredi 11 septembre
\n<\/b>Nous effectuons trois sorties dans le parc durant la journ\u00e9e.
\nLa premi\u00e8re nous a fait particuli\u00e8rement plaisir car nous avons la chance de voir un l\u00e9opard<\/strong> bien install\u00e9 sur sa branche \u00e0 regarder la bande de curieux qui viennent l\u2019observer.<\/p>\n

Special event for today<\/strong>: we see a leopard<\/strong> in a tree not far away.
\n<\/span><\/em><\/span>Leopards are night active and spend most of the day sleeping in a tree. It is very difficult to spot them and it is the only big animal we had not been able to see in the wild.
\n<\/em><\/span>Soooo beautiful ! Don\u2019t you think ?<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Jeudi 12 septembre
\n<\/b>Nous quittons Xakanaxa <\/b>pour rejoindre le site de Third Bridge<\/b>.
\nAvant de suivre la piste y menant, nous faisons un crochet vers l\u2019endroit o\u00f9 nous avons vu le l\u00e9opard hier matin et avons la bonne surprise de la voir perch\u00e9 sur le m\u00eame arbre.
\nNous attendons quelques instants et le voyons soudain s\u2019animer et entreprendre de descendre de l\u2019arbre et s\u2019\u00e9loigner lentement en passant tr\u00e8s pr\u00e8s des v\u00e9hicules pr\u00e9sents.<\/p>\n

And even better the next day. One the way to our next campground<\/strong> \u201cThird Bridge<\/strong>\u201d we stop once more at the same tree. Just in case.<\/span><\/em>
\nAnd here she is<\/strong><\/em> 😲<\/span>
\nand while we watch her she decides to climb down and slowly walks away.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

A mi-chemin du parcours, nos yeux s\u2019\u00e9carquillent en voyant apparaitre en face de nous un autre Azala\u00ef.
\n<\/b>Ce sont Fredy et Astrid <\/b>de Saint-Gall qui sont en Afrique australe pour 2 mois.<\/p>\n

Next\u00a0<\/i>special<\/i><\/span><\/strong>\u00a0event:<\/strong> look at this!<\/i><\/span>
\n<\/span>Yes, an other Swiss Azala\u00ef!!<\/strong> with Astrid and Fredy from Sankt Gallen who will tour 10 weeks through Africa.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Dans la discussion qui s\u2019ensuit, nous apprenons qu\u2019ils vont aussi \u00e0 Third Bridge<\/b>.
\nNous reprenons alors chacun notre route.
\nUne demie heure plus tard, nous butons sur un pont de bois qui n’inspire pas vraiment confiance.
\nApr\u00e8s inspection, certains rondins \u00e9tant totalement pourris, nous d\u00e9cidons de ne pas l’emprunter.<\/p>\n

A little further we need to cross a river to get to our new campground and the so called \u201cForth Bridge<\/strong>\u201d does not look inviting at all. For a closer look I walk across. The wood is in a bad state and will certainly not carry our Azala\u00ef with its 3.5t. At the other side I find a see a sign: \u201cbridge closed!<\/strong>\u201d.\u00a0At least this is clear.<\/span><\/em>
\nOnly the map is not clear at all and there is nobody to ask for help! It takes us 1 hour to find some locals who finally explain us how to find the alternative dry river crossing actually not so far away from the bridge.<\/span><\/em>
\n(No need to install a sign, we are in Africa 😉).<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s un d\u00e9tour permettant de passer la rivi\u00e8re, nous arrivons \u00e0 destination et r\u00e9servons une sortie en bateau sur le delta pour la fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi.
\nOn nous demande si nous sommes d\u2019accord de nous joindre \u00e0 un autre couple qui a r\u00e9serv\u00e9 ce matin.
\nAucun probl\u00e8me pour nous et \u00e0 16 heures, un v\u00e9hicule vient nous chercher pour nous amener au bateau.
\n<\/span>On r\u00e9cup\u00e8re le deuxi\u00e8me couple qui ,oh surprise, n\u2019est autre que Fredy et Astrid.
\n<\/b>Deux heures de navigation sur le delta de l\u2019Okavango <\/b>nous permettent de faire plus ample connaissance tout en admirant les animaux vivant sur la rivi\u00e8re.<\/p>\n

Finally we reach the campground that is literally at the end of the dirt road that leads into the delta. There is a tiny reception and a little shop for a few items in tins or powder form.\u00a0T<\/span>here is also the possibility to do a boat trip<\/strong> to explore the delta<\/strong> on the water. Excellent idea! We book for late afternoon and will join a couple that had booked earlier on.<\/em><\/span>
\nNice surprise! The couple is Iris and Fredy from the other Azala\u00ef. What a coincidence. Same vehicle, same country, same campground and same boat ride<\/em> <\/span>😊<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

So here we are right in the middle of the famous Okavango Delta<\/strong> that we have seen many times on television. I never thought that I would get here one day<\/em> 🤩<\/span>
\nAlthough it is very hot today, the atmosphere on the water is magic!<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Sadly relatively close to the small channel we are on the soil is already dried out and like everybody here we hope that the next rainy season will come early and with lots of rain!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

En revenant vers notre Azala\u00ef, nous surprenons un \u00e9l\u00e9phant en train de se gratter contre un tronc d’arbre directement derri\u00e8re l’Azala\u00ef.
\nD\u00e8s qu’il nous sent arriver, il se retourne brusquement et nous fait face, metttant ses oreilles en avant, pr\u00eat \u00e0 attaquer.
\nNous commen\u00e7ons alors une petit partie de cache-cache en nous collant \u00e0 l’Azala\u00ef et en nous mettant hors de sa vue en tournant autour du v\u00e9hicule au fur et \u00e0 mesure du d\u00e9placement de l’\u00e9l\u00e9phant.
\nIl en a d’ailleurs assez vite marre de ce petit jeu et nous, nous sommes tr\u00e8s contents qu’il n’ait pas eu l’id\u00e9e de renverser notre cher Azala\u00ef pour voir ce qui se cachait derri\u00e8re.<\/p>\n

We walk back to the Azala\u00ef in the evening twilight and realize very late that an elephant<\/strong> has chosen the tree behind the vehicle to scratch its bag. Too late, he has heard us and we cannot just walk away. We can only make sure that the Azala\u00ef stays between the elephant and us. After several fourth and backs the BIG animal looses interest and slowly walks away. Uff! <\/span><\/em>
\nWe have heard that single male elephants can be quite aggressive and he could have just thrown the Azala\u00ef over without any problem.<\/span><\/em> 😅<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Vendredi 13 septembre
\n<\/b>Deux heures et demie de piste sablonneuse nous am\u00e8nent \u00e0 la sortie de la r\u00e9serve et voyant qu\u2019il est d\u00e9j\u00e0 4 heures de l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, nous d\u00e9cidons de nous arr\u00eater et de passer la nuit cach\u00e9s dans le bush.<\/p>\n

Today we leave Moremi to get to Maun<\/strong> the central town for most of the safaris into the surrounding Parks and game reserves. 55\u2019000 inhabitants and 3rd biggest town in Botswana.<\/strong> Only after 4 hours of partly very rough and sandy road we decide to overnight right in the bush and leave the main track until we find a suitable spot. At the end we have everything we need with us and the campground in Maun is only booked for the next night.<\/em><\/span>
\nWe spend a very quiet night and have breakfast with view onto a dried out water hole.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Samedi 14 septembre
\n<\/b>Au mois d\u2019avril, nous avions r\u00e9serv\u00e9 une place au camping de \u00ab\u00a0Island Safari Lodge<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb pr\u00e8s de Maun <\/b>pour 3 jours et c\u2019est l\u00e0 que nous allons faire une petite pause d\u00e9tente avant de retourner \u00ab\u00a0Au milieu de nulle part\u00a0\u00bb pour la suite de notre d\u00e9couverte du Botswana.
\nL\u2019intervention sur le pneu que Michel<\/b> avait effectu\u00e9 il y a 4 jours tient toujours, mais nous profitons d\u2019\u00eatre pr\u00e8s d\u2019une ville de 55\u2019000 habitants pour essayer de trouver quelqu\u2019un qui pourrait nous faire une r\u00e9paration plus d\u00e9finitive.
\nNous trouvons notre bonheur au \u00ab\u00a0Tyre World<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb qui effectue l\u2019op\u00e9ration en deux temps trois mouvements.<\/p>\n

Once in Maun<\/strong> we check into the Island Safari Lodge for the next three nights. We then continue to\u00a0 <\/span>the town centre and hope to still get our tyre fixed today<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em>
\nWe just realized that today is Saturday and this maybe a problem. (we honestly had no idea what day it was, I think we are in this state since a while<\/em> 🥴).<\/span>
\nGreat surprise! We find the \u201cTyre World\u201d relatively quickly and the repair is done immediately and very professionally (with the bad road conditions here they are certainly not out of practice<\/em> 😉).<\/span><\/p>\n

Here the advantage of Africa: if you want a tyre fixed NOW, it is done in 20min, even on a Saturday afternoon, which is certainly impossible in Western Europe. But If you want to book a flight over the Okavango Delta for the day after tomorrow it does not work (experience made!).
\n<\/span>Planning is simply not their thing.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi au \u00ab\u00a0Chutney Restaurant\u00a0<\/b>\u00bb de Maun qui sert d\u2019excellent plat indiens.<\/p>\n

Dimanche 15 septembre
\n<\/span><\/b>Journ\u00e9e d\u00e9tente \u00e0 la lodge.<\/p>\n

Next day: all day relaxation<\/strong> at the lodge…
\n<\/span><\/em>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Lundi 16 septembre
\n<\/b>L\u2019essentiel de la journ\u00e9e se passe \u00e0 Maun \u00e0 faire des courses, le plein d\u2019eau et de diesel car nous allons passer les 6 prochains jours en totale autonomie dans le d\u00e9sert du Kalahari Central.<\/b><\/p>\n

… before we get<\/strong> ready again for the bush<\/strong>. We fill up water, fuel and food to be independent for the next 6 days. The Meat Boys butchery in Maun is famous for its meat quality. Although we are not too much into carrying meat in our little fridge, this time we buy beautiful beef and outreach fillet for the BBQ and some minced beef for a stir fry.<\/span><\/em>\u00a0<\/span>😋
\nLast thing we reduce the tyre pressure again for off road (the area around Maun is tarred), before we leave\u00a0<\/i>directtion<\/i><\/span>\u00a0south to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve<\/strong>.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Mardi 17 septembre
\n<\/b>Nous quittons Maun<\/b> en fin de matin\u00e9e et suivons encore un instant la route goudronn\u00e9e avant de retrouver une piste de sable qui n\u00e9cessite de r\u00e9duire la pression des pneus.
\nTrois heures plus tard, nous rejoignons la r\u00e9serve naturelle priv\u00e9e de Haina Kalahari Lodge<\/b>.
\nAccueil chaleureux de la part des g\u00e9rants Ludwig et Ana\u00efka<\/b> avec qui nous convenons de faire un \u00ab\u00a0Game Drive\u00a0<\/b>\u00bb (Sortie en v\u00e9hicule \u00e0 la recherche d\u2019animaux sauvages) demain matin.<\/p>\n

3 hours of surprisingly good sandy track later we reach the Haina Kalahari Lodge<\/strong> in a private part of the Central Kalahari<\/strong>.
\n<\/span>We check in at the beautiful lodge and the owners welcome us warmly. The campground is 3km from here in the middle of the bush. But we are allowed to use the facilities of the lodge (not always the case!).<\/em><\/span>
\nWe spend two days here with game drives<\/strong> (self drives and guided ones). A bit of\u00a0<\/i>chilling<\/i><\/span><\/span><\/strong>\u00a0at the shady lodge<\/strong> with the swimming pool and excellent espresso, as well as p\u00e9tanque<\/strong> and extensive BBQing<\/strong> at the campground. <\/i>😋<\/p>\n

Mercredi 18 septembre
\n<\/b>Wainard<\/b>, notre guide vient nous chercher \u00e0 07h00 avec son Toyota Landcruiser \u00e0 si\u00e8ges sur\u00e9lev\u00e9s, pour un tour de pr\u00e8s de 3 heures \u00e0 travers la r\u00e9serve.<\/p>\n

Here the typical bush flora<\/strong> at the Central Kalahari. Taken during the guided game drive.<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a>
\nIl esp\u00e8re pouvoir nous montrer l\u2019un des 2 groupes de lions qui vivent ici mais ceux-ci resterons introuvables.
\nNous devons nous contenter d\u2019un groupe de jeunes Kudus m\u00e2les aux impressionnantes cornes spiral\u00e9es, de Steenbocks, d\u2019impalas, de girafes, d\u2019elands et des premiers Oryx<\/b> depuis ceux que nous avions vus dans le d\u00e9sert du Namib en Namibie.<\/p>\n

And as a contrast here one of the huge<\/strong> salt pans<\/strong> that fill up with water during the rainy season.\u00a0Take during one of our self drives featuring a beautiful Oryx<\/strong>.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Jeudi 19 septembre<\/b>
\n<\/span>On sent que le printemps frappe \u00e0 la porte car les temp\u00e9ratures atteignent maintenant les 36\u00b0C l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi. Heureusement, le vent apporte un peu de fraicheur mais ce qui aide \u00e0 supporter la chaleur, c\u2019est le fait de l\u2019humidit\u00e9 relative qui n\u2019exc\u00e8de pas 10%.
\nMatin\u00e9es et soir\u00e9es sont toutefois tr\u00e8s agr\u00e9ables car le thermom\u00e8tre descend jusqu\u2019\u00e0 une quinzaine de degr\u00e9s durant la nuit.<\/p>\n

Quelques parties de p\u00e9tanque ont agr\u00e9ment\u00e9 notre matin\u00e9e et l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi nous voit flemmarder dans la chaleureuse ambiance de la lodge.<\/p>\n

36C in the shade<\/em><\/span><\/strong> 🥵. But the swimming pool and the airy construction of the lodge make it bearable<\/span> 😊\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Vendredi 20 au Dimanche 22 septembre
\n<\/b>En route vers notre prochaine destination, Deception Pan<\/b>, dans le Kalahari central<\/b>, nous tombons sur un camion en panne au milieu de la piste.<\/p>\n

From the Private Game Reserve we continue to the much larger state owned Central Kalahari Park. On our way we try to help kick start a lorry<\/strong> that has a battery failure. We are the first car they see since 24h! But unfortunately our batter is not strong enough. Luckily they had managed to call for help from a close by sanitary control poste. However, the next connection to a tarred road is more than 100km rough and sandy track away and the lorry driver does not expect help to arrive before several days! <\/span>🥵<\/span>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ils sont l\u00e0 depuis 24 heures sans avoir aper\u00e7u le moindre v\u00e9hicule
\nL\u2019une de ses deux batteries produisant les 24 Volts n\u00e9cessaires \u00e0 la marche du v\u00e9hicule est hors d\u2019usage.
\nNous essayons de brancher la batterie de l\u2019Azala\u00ef pour suppl\u00e9er \u00e0 celle d\u00e9fectueuse mais malgr\u00e9 toute notre bonne volont\u00e9, le camion refuse de d\u00e9marrer.
\nHeureusement, ils ont pu t\u00e9l\u00e9phoner d\u2019un poste de contr\u00f4le sanitaire proche \u00e0 leur compagnie qui va leur faire acheminer une batterie en \u00e9tat de fonctionnement dans les meilleurs d\u00e9lais.
\nEn Afrique \u00e7a veut dire peut \u00eatre dans la semaine !!!<\/p>\n

Deux heures plus tard, nous arrivons \u00e0 notre emplacement, au milieu de la savane, sans eau ni \u00e9lectricit\u00e9, loin du bruit et de la pollution lumineuse et passons l\u00e0 trois merveilleuses soir\u00e9es, seuls au monde, assis pr\u00e8s du feu de camp \u00e0 admirer la voute c\u00e9leste brillant de mille \u00e9toiles, un verre d\u2019Amarula<\/b> bien frais dans la main.<\/p>\n

From here we drive further into the Central Kalahari. The “Deception Pan” campground<\/strong> is in the middle of nowhere. No water, no electricity and the facilities are basically a so called \u201clong drop\u201d (dry) toilet and a little area to take a bucked shower. If you bring your bucket and your water <\/em>😉<\/span>
\nIt is pretty much a wild camp, only that you pay for it since wild camping is not allowed inside a Reserve.<\/em><\/span>
\nLike at the last few campgrounds you better be careful to go to the toilet during the night. There is no fence to keep out Hyenas, lions, elephants etc.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

A perfect place for star gazing<\/strong> and sipping an Amarula<\/strong> on ice<\/strong> at the camp fire!<\/em>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Durant la journ\u00e9e, nous effectuons deux sorties avec l’Azala\u00ef (dont la climatisation nous permet de nous affranchir de la chaleur ambiante).
\nNos yeux scrutent l’ombre des arbres \u00e0 la recherche d’animaux que nous n’avons pas encore eu l’occasion de voir jusque l\u00e0.
\nC’est ainsi que nous apercevons, bien lov\u00e9 \u00e0 l’ombre d’un arbuste aux piquants ac\u00e9r\u00e9s, un otocyon<\/strong> qui est \u00e9galement appel\u00e9 renard<\/em> \u00e0 oreilles de chauve<\/em>–souris<\/em> \u00e0 cause de ses oreilles\u00a0<\/em>qui mesurent entre onze et treize cm chacune.<\/p>\n

There is not much shade at our camp site since the trees have not yet grown their leaves. So the best thing to spend the hottest time of the day is a game drive with the air conditioning switched on<\/span><\/em> 🥴
\n<\/span>We see:
\n<\/span><\/em>– plenty of animals dozing in the scarce shade, that we have already shown to you on various photos
\n<\/span><\/span><\/em>– two Cheetahs! but we are not close enough for a good photo
\n<\/span><\/em>– several cute Bat Eared Foxes<\/strong><\/span><\/em>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Lundi 23 septembre
\n<\/b>Apr\u00e8s ces trois jours au milieu de nulle part, nous rejoignons la civilisation en nous rendant pr\u00e8s de la petite ville mini\u00e8re d\u2019Orapa<\/strong>.
\nMakumutu Safari Lodge<\/b> va nous accueillir pour ces trois prochaines journ\u00e9es.
\nMokumutu<\/b> (au singulier) est le nom d\u2019un arbre dont la s\u00e8ve est utilis\u00e9e par les bochimans <\/b>pour faire du savon.<\/p>\n

After 3 days deep in the bush, we return to civilization. First activity at Makumutu Safari Lodge<\/strong> at Orapa is a well deserved shower<\/strong>. 😁<\/span><\/em>
\nThe gum of the Mokumutu tree that gives its name to the lodge was used as soap by the bushmen, we learn (in case they had enough water to use it, I suppose).<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Comme vous l\u2019aurez peut-\u00eatre remarqu\u00e9, nous nous somme mis en mode ralenti pour ces 2 derni\u00e8res semaines africaines.<\/p>\n

We are in slow down phase,<\/strong> as you may have noticed. To start with it is getting a little too hot for me and the hottest time of the day is best spent in the shade<\/strong> close to a swimming pool.<\/strong> But we are also ready for a bit of fare niente before we fly home in roughly 10 days.<\/span><\/em>
\nOur lodge is next to Botswanas biggest Diamond mine<\/strong> and the little mining town Orapa<\/strong>. To enter the town for food shopping or to visit the mining museum we need a permit that the lodge organises for us.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Nous privil\u00e9gions les phases de farniente aux activit\u00e9s de d\u00e9couverte, sans toutefois les n\u00e9gliger compl\u00e8tement.
\nDurant ces trois journ\u00e9es \u00e0 Orapa<\/b>, nous avons profit\u00e9 de visiter le mus\u00e9e de la mine de Diamant.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ce mus\u00e9e a \u00e9t\u00e9 financ\u00e9 par les propri\u00e9taires de la mine, pour moiti\u00e9 la soci\u00e9t\u00e9 mini\u00e8re De Beers<\/b> et\u00a0 <\/span>le gouvernement Botswanais <\/b>pour l\u2019autre moiti\u00e9.
\nC\u2019est la premi\u00e8re et la plus grande mine de diamants du Botswana.
\nCette mine de surface de 2,5 x 1,8 km et de 350 m\u00e8tres de profondeur a \u00e9t\u00e9 ouverte en 1967, une ann\u00e9e apr\u00e8s l\u2019ind\u00e9pendance du pays.
\n<\/span>Connu comme l\u2019un des pays les plus pauvres du monde en 1966, gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte de diamants sur son territoire, le Botswana<\/b> est aujourd\u2019hui prosp\u00e8re et nomm\u00e9 quelques fois \u00ab\u00a0La Suisse de l\u2019Afrique\u00a0\u00bb pour sa bonne gestion.
\nLa ville d\u2019Orapa<\/b>, \u00e9rig\u00e9e \u00e0 la suite de l\u2019ouverture de la mine pour y accueillir les employ\u00e9s, compte \u00e0 ce jour plus de 10\u2019000 habitants dont 5500 travaillent pour la soci\u00e9t\u00e9 mini\u00e8re.
\nLa cit\u00e9 et les alentours de la mine \u00e9tant au coeur d\u2019un zone prot\u00e9g\u00e9e, entour\u00e9e d\u2019un grillage et accessible seulement en montrant patte blanche (nous avons d\u00fb demander un permis) peu de loisirs sont accessibles aux habitants.
\nPour combler ce manque, la soci\u00e9t\u00e9 mini\u00e8re a cr\u00e9\u00e9 une r\u00e9serve naturelle sur son territoire, ce qui permet aux habitants de venir s\u2019y divertir lors de leur temps libre.<\/p>\n

When Botswana came independent in 1966 it was one of the poorest nations in the world. <\/span><\/em>
\nThe situation changed by the discovery and mining of diamonds in 1971<\/strong>. The revenue from diamond sales could then be shared and distributed for national development, and it accounted for over 60% of Botswanas Government revenue. In contrary to many other African counties Botswanas mines are state owned and the revenue was and still is spent for its people. It helped to develop Botswana into the middle income economy that it is today. <\/span><\/em>
\nToday Botswana is the world\u2019s leading producer of diamonds<\/strong> by value.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

The neat little town Orapa is completely fenced in together with the mine. There is a supermarket, a pharmacy, a hospital, a fuel station, housing and extensive sports facilities for the 10\u2019000 inhabitants of which 5500 work in the mine. We also see a police station and a big fire brigade. <\/span><\/em>
\nThere is even a Game Park<\/strong> that can be visited for free!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Vendredi 27 septembre
\n<\/b>Il nous reste encore quelques jours avant de rejoindre la Zambie<\/b> et pr\u00e9parer notre d\u00e9part.
\nNous en profitons pour rejoindre la ville de Gweta<\/b>, situ\u00e9e 150 km au nord d\u2019Orapa et choisissons de passer par la piste qui traverse la r\u00e9gion des lacs sal\u00e9s.
\nNous rencontrons en chemin Marcos et Nath<\/b>, un couple de br\u00e9siliens qui visitent le pays \u00e0 bord de leur Defender et apr\u00e8s avoir rapidement sympathis\u00e9, nous d\u00e9cidons de terminer la journ\u00e9e ensemble.
\nC\u2019est ainsi, qu\u2019au milieu de cette zone totalement plate et d\u00e9sertique \u00e0 cette p\u00e9riode de l\u2019ann\u00e9e nomm\u00e9e \u00ab\u00a0Nwetwe Pan<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb que nous admirons le coucher de soleil avant de partager un repas \u00e0 bord de l\u2019Azala\u00ef.<\/p>\n

We still have one last Park to visit. To get there we will travers the Ntwetwe Pan<\/strong> and stop for two days at the little town Gweta roughly 150km north from Orapa.<\/span><\/em>
\nHalf way we meet Marcos and Nath a Brazilian couple<\/strong> that visits the south of Africa before moving to Barcelona for work and decide to camp together in the middle of the pan<\/strong>.
\n<\/span><\/span><\/em>Sunset, stargazing and sunrise are amazing here!<\/span><\/em>\u00a0🤩
\nTemperature variation too: 8C in the morning, 36 in the afternoon!<\/em> 😲<\/span><\/p>\n

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Apr\u00e8s sa disparition sous l\u2019horizon ouest, le voici qui resurgit \u00e0 l\u2019est, pr\u00eat \u00e0 nous accompagner pour une nouvelle journ\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

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Samedi 28 septembre
\n<\/b>L\u2019endroit nous plait beaucoup et ce n\u2019est qu\u2019en d\u00e9but d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi que nous nous d\u00e9pla\u00e7ons de quelques kilom\u00e8tres pour en retrouver un assez similaire \u00ab\u00a0Green\u2019s Baobab\u00a0<\/b>\u00bb.
\nMonument national se trouvant sur la route historique des explorateurs, chasseurs et marchands du 19\u00e8me et 20\u00e8me si\u00e8cle se rendant vers le nord, ce baobab \u00e0 pris le nom des fr\u00e8res Greens qui ont camp\u00e9 l\u00e0 \u00e0 la fin des ann\u00e9es 1880 et grav\u00e9 leurs noms dans l\u2019\u00e9corce du g\u00e9ant.<\/p>\n

We stay another night just at the border of the pan next to \u00ab\u00a0Green\u2019s Baobab”<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em>
\nIt is impossible to precisely estimate the age of a baobab tree since they dont produce yearly layers like other trees. However, this tree was used as a landmark by 19th and 20th century explorers, hunters and traders traveling to the interiors of the country. Their inscriptions are prove that the tree was already of remarkable size then.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Dimanche 29 septembre au mardi 1er octobre
\n<\/span><\/b>Deux heures de routes poussi\u00e9reuses nous am\u00e8nent aujourd\u2019hui \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0Planet Baobab Lodge\u00a0<\/b>\u00bb pr\u00e8s de Gweta<\/b>.<\/p>\n

A couple of dusty hours<\/strong> more bring us to the little town Gweta<\/strong> and the Planet Baobab Lodge<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Endroit des plus agr\u00e9able que nous allons d\u00e9guster avec plaisir durant les trois jours \u00e0 venir.<\/p>\n

Perfect space for us to survive the heat!<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Mercredi au vendredi 4 octobre
\n<\/b>Derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape nature et solitude de notre p\u00e9riple pour cette ann\u00e9e,
\nles \u00ab\u00a0Nxai Pan\u00a0<\/b>\u00bb
\nIl y a deux millions d\u2019ann\u00e9es, toute cette r\u00e9gion \u00e9tait recouverte par l\u2019eau, formant un grand lac de 80\u2019000 km2 ( 2 x la Suisse) et 30 m\u00e8tres de profondeur.
\nLes changements climatiques et des craquelures dans la cro\u00fbte terrestre ont ass\u00e9ch\u00e9 la zone, formant de grandes \u00e9tendues d\u00e9sertiques se remplissant toutefois d\u2019eau \u00e0 la saison des pluies.
\nCe climat est tr\u00e8s appr\u00e9ci\u00e9 des baobabs qui sont nombreux \u00e0 s\u2019y \u00e9panouir.
\nDans la partie sud des Nxai Pan,<\/b> 7 de ceux-ci, regroup\u00e9s sur un promontoire rocheux est devenu une attraction gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 un d\u00e9nomm\u00e9 Bain<\/b>, qui les \u00e0 peints en 1862 lorsqu\u2019il accompagnait l\u2019explorateur John Chapman<\/b> vers les chutes Victoria.
\nCes arbres, vivant plus de mille ans, croissent tr\u00e8s lentement, \u00e0 tel point qu\u2019il est tr\u00e8s difficile d\u2019apercevoir une diff\u00e9rence entre la peinture de l\u2019\u00e9poque et la vision qu\u2019ils offrent aujourd\u2019hui.<\/p>\n

Our last excursion<\/strong> into the wild leads us in the Nxai Pans<\/strong>, where we will one more time camp in total solitude and independence<\/strong> (no water, no electricity, no nothing), and we will one last time visit a waterhole where we hope to see many animals (always a question of luck and good timing).<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Nxai Pan:<\/span><\/em><\/strong>
\nAbout two million years ago, there was a vast lake in the middle of the Kalahari desert, called Lake Makgadikgadi. It is believed to have covered an area of 80\u2019000 square km to a depth of up to 30m. As the millennial passed, climate change and cracks in the earth\u2019s crust led to this lake drying up. This in turn, led to the formation of a series of smaller pans separated by sandy desert and rocky islands, covering 10\u2019000 square km. Today these are known as Makgadkgadi Pans and Nxai Pan is one of the largest ones.
\n<\/span>Pan = trough or depression in the ground that here, during the rainy season, fills with water and then slowly dries up again.<\/span><\/em>
\nThe resulting climate suits particularly to Baobabs<\/strong> and in Nxai Pan a group of 7 majestic ones is known as the “Bains Baobabs<\/strong>“. This is where our lonely camp will be for the next two nights.<\/em> 😀<\/span>
\nBain painted these trees in 1862 while accompanying a fellow explorer to Victoria falls.\u00a0 <\/span>Baobabs grow very slowly and are estimated to grow over 1000 years old<\/strong>. So it is extremely ditto discern any difference between the trees int the painting and the trees as they are now 160 years later!<\/em> 😲<\/span><\/p>\n

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Durant la journ\u00e9e de vendredi, nous rejoignons le \u00ab\u00a0South Camp<\/strong>\u00a0\u00bb pour passer encore quelques instants autour de notre ultime point d\u2019eau afin de voir une derni\u00e8re fois ces groupes d\u2019animaux divers venir s\u2019y abreuver en d\u00e9but et en fin de journ\u00e9e.
\nLe printemps frappe \u00e0 la porte, ce qui a pour effet de voir les temp\u00e9ratures friser les 40\u00b0C l’apr\u00e8s-midi et aussi le ciel, qui jusqu’\u00e0 maintenant montrait un visage invariablement bleu, se charger progressivement de nuages, ce qui nous l’esp\u00e9rons pour l’Afrique australe am\u00e8nera rapidement la pluie tant attendue.<\/p>\n

We are lucky at the waterhole!!<\/span><\/em> 😀<\/span><\/span>
\n<\/span>Lots of elephants in the evening and lots of different animals in the morning.<\/span><\/em>
\nWe got up very early which was the rights strategy! We are early October and temperatures reach up to 40C during the day (in the shade!!). So the animals come early and when we leave the waterhole at around 7:30 most of the animals are gone.<\/span><\/em>
\nIn General October is called suicide month<\/strong> here due to high temperatures and humidity<\/strong>! <\/span><\/em>🥵<\/span> It announces the hot and rainy season that will last till around end March.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Samedi 5 octobre
\n<\/b>Ce matin, alors que nous sommes tranquillement en train de boire notre th\u00e9, un \u00e9l\u00e9phant surgit de la savane et se dirige tranquillement vers nous tout en traversant le camping.
\nOn bouge, on bouge pas ? Telle est la question que l\u2019on se pose.
\nFinalement, on prend l\u2019option de rester \u00e0 notre place, mais j\u2019en profite quand m\u00eame pour immortaliser la sc\u00e8ne en me d\u00e9calant un peu derri\u00e8re l\u2019Azala\u00ef.<\/p>\n

We have spent the third night in this park not far from the water hole at South Camp to where we return now for breakfast<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em>
\nWe are sitting in behind the Azala\u00ef in the shade with a cup of tea, when an elephant walks right through the camp<\/strong>. If she keeps her direction she will walk pass us at max 5m!!<\/span><\/em>
\nWe debate very briefly if we leave or stay quietly seated.<\/span><\/em>
\nI decide for the latter but Michel gets up to fetch the camera.<\/span><\/em>
\nThe elephant stops next to me, I stop breathing<\/em> 🤭. She is really, really big!<\/span>
\nShe looks briefly at me and then walks on calmly. I restart breathing 😲😄<\/span><\/p>\n

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Mais en fait ! O\u00f9 vas t-il ?
\nEh bien, il va rejoindre sa copine qui est en train de se d\u00e9lecter de l’eau des douches du bloc sanitaire tout proche qui, apr\u00e8s avoir enlev\u00e9 le couvercle du puits perdu leur devient accessible.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

C’est ici que nous allons terminer notre r\u00e9cit pour cette fois et aussi pour cette ann\u00e9e.
\nNous allons maintenant remonter vers Livingstone en Zambie<\/strong> ou nous laisserons notre Azala\u00ef.<\/strong>
\nQuant \u00e0 nous, un vol de Livingstone \u00e0 Johannesburg<\/strong> va nous permettre de visiter un peu cette ville durant une journ\u00e9e avant notre vol Johannesburg \u00e0 Gen\u00e8ve<\/strong> qui va nous ramener \u00e0 la maison pour les 6 prochains mois.
\nNous r\u00e9servons en derni\u00e8re minute un tour des principales curiosit\u00e9s de la ville que nous effectuons la veille de notre d\u00e9part sous la conduite de Solly<\/strong>, notre super guide pour la journ\u00e9e.
\nIci, devant la maison de Mandela<\/strong> \u00e0 Soweto.<\/p>\n

With these last intense images in our head we return to Livingston in Sambia<\/strong>, where we will leave the Azala\u00ef for the rainy season<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em>
\nOur <\/i><\/span>return flight<\/strong> goes from here to<\/i><\/span> Geneva via Johannesburg<\/strong> where we stopover <\/i>to\u00a0complete our South Africa experience with a on day city\u00a0tour.
\nOn the picture we are in\u00a0<\/i>front<\/i><\/span>\u00a0of Nelson Mandela’s house in Soweto<\/strong> together\u00a0with our super guide Sollie!\u00a0<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

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Merci \u00e0 toutes et tous de nous avoir suivi lors de ce p\u00e9riple.
\nNous vous souhaitons de passer un bel hiver en attendant de nous retrouver pour la suite de cette aventure africaine \u00e0 partir du mois d’avril de l’ann\u00e9e prochaine.<\/p>\n

Nous allons alors visiter le Malawi, La Tanzanie, Le Kenia, l’Ethiopi<\/strong>e et de l\u00e0, tenter de rentrer en Suisse par la route<\/strong>, suivant un parcours d\u00e9pendant de la situation politique dans les pays que nous devrons traverser.<\/p>\n

We hope you enjoyed following us for our second Africa trip!<\/span><\/em><\/strong>
\nOur next adventure will start mid April<\/strong> next year and will bring us from Sambia to Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia ideally back to Switzerland. Although the passage from Ethiopia to the Mediterranean is not certain yet and could either lead us through Sudan and Egypt or through Djibouti, Oman and Iran (or maybe even another route). But this still depends on the development of the political situation of several countries…<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Amiti\u00e9s de Milke<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Samedi 31ao\u00fbt Nous voil\u00e0 de retour au Botswana pour une dur\u00e9e de 5 semaines, durant lesquelles nous allons avoir l\u2019occasion d\u2019en d\u00e9couvrir les diff\u00e9rentes facettes. Apr\u00e8s un passage de fronti\u00e8re assez particulier, car il faut traverser la rivi\u00e8re Limpopo qui … Continuer la lecture →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_s2mail":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5771","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5771","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5771"}],"version-history":[{"count":40,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5771\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5977,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5771\/revisions\/5977"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5771"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5771"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5771"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}