{"id":4531,"date":"2018-12-21T12:33:32","date_gmt":"2018-12-21T11:33:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/?p=4531"},"modified":"2019-01-05T15:12:29","modified_gmt":"2019-01-05T14:12:29","slug":"garden-route-addo-drakensberg","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/garden-route-addo-drakensberg\/","title":{"rendered":"GARDEN ROUTE – ADDO – DRAKENSBERG"},"content":{"rendered":"

Garden Route – Addo Elephant Park – Drakensberg<\/strong><\/p>\n

Dimanche 2 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nDe Mossel Bay<\/strong> \u00e0 presque Port-Elizabeth<\/strong> la c\u00f4te se nomme\u00a0: Garden Route<\/strong> (La route des jardins).
\nOn pourrait tout aussi bien l’appeler la Route des Babouins car on les voit tr\u00e8s souvent se baladant sur la chauss\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

Here we are at the famous <\/em>Garden Route<\/strong><\/em> that\u00a0stretches 300km along the southern coast from Mossel Bay to the Storms River in the Eastern Cape. Known for its spectacular beaches, the pleasant climate all year round and the lush vegetation that contrasts with the semi-arid climate of the Western Cape, the garden Route is one of South Africa\u2019s key tourist attractions. It is also a preferred are for retired South Africans and housing prices soar.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Baboons on the road! A rather frequent sight. Every where we go we see signs \u201cdon\u2019t feed the Baboons!\u201d. Apparently once used to human beings they are unstoppable and even break into houses to find food! They can become quite aggressive too, we are told\u2026<\/span> <\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ce qui surprend apr\u00e8s avoir visit\u00e9 le Petit Karoo<\/strong>, r\u00e9gion s\u00e8che et rocailleuse ou les seules \u00e9tendues vertes sont les plantations et les cultures qui sont abondamment arros\u00e9es, ici, tout est luxuriant comme dans une r\u00e9gion tropicale.
\nCeci est d\u00fb \u00e0 l\u2019influence du courant venant de l\u2019Oc\u00e9an Indien<\/strong> qui s\u2019\u00e9tend sur les trois quarts de la c\u00f4te sud et qui am\u00e8ne chaleur et humidit\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Ce matin, on part faire une randonn\u00e9e dans le \u00ab\u00a0Wilderness National Park<\/strong>\u00a0\u00bb pr\u00e8s de la ville de George<\/strong>.
\nTr\u00e8s vite, le sentier s\u2019engage dans la for\u00eat primaire et tout de suite on sent cette humidit\u00e9 qui s\u2019abat sur nos \u00e9paules.<\/p>\n

The sudden climate change from west to east coast is caused by the different marine currents. A southern cold current creates the semi arid climate in the west and a warm northern current creates the warm and humid climate in the east.
\n<\/em>We immediate see and feel the change in climate and are impressed by the jungle like vegetating and the abundance of water we see during our hike at the \u201cWilderness National Park<\/strong>\u201d close to George.<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Au passage de la rivi\u00e8re, un radeau navette en self-service nous permet de rejoindre la rive oppos\u00e9e sans se mouiller les pieds.<\/p>\n

A DIY ferry!<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Deux pintades de Numidie<\/strong> cherchent leur pitance sur le bord du chemin sans m\u00eame se sentir d\u00e9rang\u00e9es par notre pr\u00e9sence.<\/p>\n

We had to show a picture of these funny, big Guinea Fowls<\/strong> at some stage. They are everywhere in South Africa! They run super-fast and fly surprisingly well!<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Et toujours ces magnifiques fleurs\u2026..
\nLook at these seed pods!<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Le chemin se termine au pied d\u2019une cascade qui offre un endroit id\u00e9al pour le pique-nique.<\/p>\n

At the end of the hike the reward \ud83d\ude42<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

C’est qui le fada qui est sous la chute !?<\/span>
\nCan you spot Michel that sits under the waterfall?
\n<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

C\u2019est au bord du lagon de<\/strong> Knysna<\/strong> que nous finissons notre journ\u00e9e et passons la nuit.
\nThe tidal pool of the campground at Knysna Lagoon<\/strong>.<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Lundi 3 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>.
\nNous longeons la c\u00f4te et nous arr\u00eatons de temps \u00e0 autre pour admirer le spectacle des rouleaux de l\u2019Oc\u00e9an Indien venant s\u2019\u00e9craser sur la plage et les rochers.<\/p>\n

December 3rd<\/sup>.<\/strong>
\nWe drive along the coast and stop once in a while to wander along the stunning beaches.<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a>\u00a0\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s un bon repas dans un restaurant de Plettenberg Bay<\/strong>, nous terminons dans un camping proche d\u2019un d\u00e9part de randonn\u00e9e c\u00f4ti\u00e8re que nous pr\u00e9voyons de faire demain.<\/p>\n

We finish the day with an excellent seafood dinner at Plettenberg Bay<\/strong> an international surfer paradise<\/strong>.<\/span> <\/em><\/p>\n

Mardi 4 d\u00e9cembre.
\n<\/strong>Arriv\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e du parc pour notre randonn\u00e9e du jour, le pr\u00e9pos\u00e9 \u00e0 la barri\u00e8re nous apprend que le parcours n\u2019est pas ouvert d\u00fb \u00e0 un incendie ravageur qui a s\u00e9vi l\u2019ann\u00e9e derni\u00e8re.
\nD\u00e9\u00e7us, nous prenons la route en direction de Port-Elizabeth et profitons en cours de route de nous balader sur l\u2019une ou l\u2019autre de ces superbes plages bordant la c\u00f4te.<\/p>\n

The costal park where we had planned our next hike is closed! The intense drought South Africa has experienced over the last three years has led to severe forest fires<\/strong> even here and vast areas are destroyed!<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Plan B: more of the idyllic beaches. \ud83d\ude42<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/strong>
\nC\u00f4t\u00e9 montagne par contre, le spectacle est tout autre.
\nLes incendies de plus en plus fr\u00e9quents en Afrique du Sud n\u2019\u00e9pargnent pas la r\u00e9gion c\u00f4ti\u00e8re ou le feu a d\u00e9truit des zones consid\u00e9rables de la plaine au sommet des montagnes sur des dizaines de kilom\u00e8tres.
\n\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Un arr\u00eat au \u00ab\u00a0Monk River Bridge<\/strong>\u00a0\u00bb s\u2019impose.
\nCe pont est sp\u00e9cialement connu des \u00ab\u00a0sauteurs \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9lastique<\/strong>\u00a0\u00bb, car c\u2019est ici que l\u2019on peut faire le saut le plus long au monde avec ses 286 m\u00e8tres de hauteur.<\/p>\n

Monk River Bridge<\/strong>: The highest single span concrete arch bridge in the world, the highest bridge in the southern hemisphere AND you can do the world wide highest Bungee Jump<\/strong> here. If you want\u2026
\n<\/em><\/span>While we were watching quite a lot of people did dare!
\nIf you zoom into the picture you should see someone at the end of a rope right under the middle of the bridge! They are filmed and at the view point you can see their face on the screen just before they jump <\/em><\/span>\ud83d\ude42
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Mercredi 5 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nJourn\u00e9e consacr\u00e9e \u00e0 la visite de Port Elizabeth<\/strong>.
\nComme la ville du Cap, le lieu de vie s\u2019\u00e9tend en bord de mer avec le quartier dit du \u00ab\u00a0Water Front<\/strong>\u00a0\u00bb.
\nM\u00e9lange de commerces, de restaurants, de man\u00e8ges au milieu d\u2019un parc de verdure et d\u2019\u00e9tangs, ce lieu voit se r\u00e9unir la population de la ville qui vient passer un moment de d\u00e9tente.<\/p>\n

December 5 \u2013 Port Elisabeth
\n<\/strong><\/em>With a population of 1.3 million, a major seaport and important industry, Port Elisabeth is the southernmost large city of the African continent (even further south than Cape Town). It has a large attractive water front and beautiful beaches.
\n<\/em>The old Town Centre feels a little abandoned and we (I should say I) don\u2019t feel super safe here. We prefer the stroll along the Waterfront and it looks like the locals too!
\n<\/em>The town was founded by the governor Sir Rufane Donkin<\/strong> in 1820<\/strong>, who named it after his wife. Very sweet<\/em><\/span> \ud83d\ude42<\/em>\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a>\u00a0 \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ni l\u2019une, ni l\u2019autre de ces localit\u00e9s ne poss\u00e8de vraiment de \u00ab\u00a0Centre-Ville<\/strong>\u00a0\u00bb.
\nPr\u00e8s du phare qui domine la ville de Port Elizabeth<\/strong> se trouve un monument d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 la personne qui a donn\u00e9 son nom \u00e0 la ville, l\u2019\u00e9pouse du gouverneur du Cap<\/strong> , Rufane Donkin<\/strong>, qui a fond\u00e9 la ville en 1820<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

The Donkin Lighthouse<\/strong> and the Elisabeth memorial<\/strong> dominate the town.<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L’h\u00f4tel de ville
\nThe City Town Hall<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Lorsqu’il s’agit de faire une fouille, une main d’oeuvre abondante et bon march\u00e9 remplace\u00a0la traditionnelle pelleuse.<\/p>\n

\u201cMen at work\u201d (manpower is cheap and unemployment is high\u2026).<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Jeudi 6 et vendredi 7d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nA une heure et demie de la ville, se trouve le Parc National des El\u00e9phants d\u2019Addo.<\/strong>
\nAu d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 1900<\/strong>, la r\u00e9gion comptait environ 2000 \u00e9l\u00e9phants d\u2019Afrique<\/strong>.
\nLes fermiers de l\u2019\u00e9poque voyant leurs cultures d\u2019agrumes ravag\u00e9es par ces pachydermes qui raffolent tout particuli\u00e8rement des oranges ont demand\u00e9 que leur soit donn\u00e9e l’autorisation de les tuer.
\nPermission accord\u00e9e !!!
\nEn 1931<\/strong>, alors qu\u2019il restait seulement 11 rescap\u00e9s<\/strong>, il fut d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de cr\u00e9er un sanctuaire qui allait devenir ce parc national d\u2019une \u00e9tendue \u00e9gale \u00e0 celle du canton de Vaud<\/strong> et qui compte aujourd\u2019hui 650 \u00e9l\u00e9phants<\/strong> et aussi de nombreuses esp\u00e8ces sauvages, dont les fameux \u00ab\u00a0Big Five<\/strong>\u00a0\u00bb (5 grands)\u00a0:
\n\u00c9l\u00e9phant, Buffle, Rhinoc\u00e9ros, Lion et L\u00e9opard<\/strong>.
\nEn milieu d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, nous nous mettons en route avec notre Azala\u00ef en esp\u00e9rant voir quelques-uns des animaux peuplant ce vaste domaine sillonn\u00e9 par 200 km de pistes.
\nCe doit \u00eatre notre jour de chance car, en plus des \u00e9l\u00e9phants, buffles, z\u00e8bres, koudous, alcelaphus caama, phacoch\u00e8res, etc\u2026.<\/p>\n

December 6\/7 – Addo Elephant National Park.
\n<\/strong><\/em>Unbelievable! We are in South Africa since 7 weeks already and this is our first Game Drive<\/strong>! I don\u2019t
\nthink we realised that there are so many other things to do and see besides wild animals <\/em>J<\/em>
\n<\/strong><\/em><\/span>The Addo National Park<\/strong> is situated 1.5hrs north of Port Elisabeth, right next to a big citrus farming area. Did you know that Elephants LOVE citrus fruits? Well, beginning 1900 when there were still 2000 wild elephants in this area, the farmers learned this the hard way. Their plantations were regularly invaded by Elephants and their businesses suffered much. <\/span>
\nThe farmers received permission to shoot them and when in 1931 only 11 animals remained this National Park was finally created with a surface as big as canton Vaud.<\/span>
\nToday there are 650 Elephants in the park and many other animals have been re-introduced including the big 5 (Elephants, Buffalo, Rhino, Lion, Leopard).\u00a0\u00a0
\n<\/strong>Best time to see animals we learn is late afternoon or early morning. So we plan to spend first a few hours at the camp site in the shade (it is very hot!). But Charles and<\/span> Jenny our lovely South African camping neighbours let us know that a lion has killed a buffalo and that we should go and see. <\/span>
\nSo we leave a little earlier than planned and are super lucky! <\/span>
\nWe see lots of Elephants that enjoy the water holes in the heat. We also see Zebras, hartebeest, Kudus, Warthog, Buffalos<\/strong> and\u2026 <\/span><\/em>\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a>\u00a0 \"\"<\/a>\u00a0\"\"<\/a>\u00a0 \"\"<\/a>\u00a0 \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a>
\n\u2026..nous avons le bonheur de voir 3 jeunes\u00a0lions<\/strong> qui gardent jalousement\u00a0la proie qu\u2019ils ont chass\u00e9 dans la matin\u00e9e.
\nAlors que nous sommes en train de les regarder tourner autour de la bufflonne, un imposant buffle descend du bush et vient d\u00e9fier les\u00a0f\u00e9lins afin de s\u2019approcher de la victime.
\nPeut-\u00eatre \u00e9tait-ce sa compagne et qu\u2019il vient lui faire ses adieux. Qui sait\u00a0!?<\/p>\n

\u20263 young lions<\/strong> that had indeed killed a buffalo.
\nJust after we arrived a big buffalo chases the lions away from their prey. Did he come to mourn his child? The lions don\u2019t even try to confront the buffalo and keep their distance!<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Samedi 8 d\u00e9cembre
\n<\/strong>Encore une fois, nous nous sommes li\u00e9s d\u2019amiti\u00e9 avec nos voisins de camping, Jenny et Charles<\/strong> qui habitent sur la c\u00f4te sud.
\nNous avons pass\u00e9 la soir\u00e9e d’hier en leur compagnie autour d\u2019un braai et aussi avec Alan<\/strong>, l\u2019un de leurs amis ranger qui nous a entretenus avec anecdotes et histoires sur ce parc qu\u2019il connait depuis une quinzaine d\u2019ann\u00e9es.
\nCe matin, nous nous s\u00e9parons en nous promettant de nous revoir l\u2019ann\u00e9e prochaine.<\/p>\n

We spend the evening with Jenny, Charles<\/strong> and their friend Alain<\/strong> around a delicious Braai (remember the South African BBQ!). Alain is on a sabbatical from his computer science career and currently works as ranger in this park. He has plenty of stories, interesting facts and tips for us!
\n<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Derni\u00e8re travers\u00e9e du parc et derni\u00e8res observations animales avant de rejoindre la N2 qui va nous amener \u00e0 Grahamstown.
\n<\/strong>Next morning we cross the park one more time before hitting the road direction east. No more lions but plenty of Zebras<\/strong> and Antelopes<\/strong> and even a tortoise<\/strong>.<\/span><\/em>
\n\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Dimanche 9 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nGrahamstown.<\/strong>
\nPetit tour dans cette ville universitaire aux nombreux clochers (60’000 habitants<\/strong>).
\nElle doit son nom au colonel John Graham.
\nEn 1812<\/strong>, il a chass\u00e9 20’000 indig\u00e8nes Xhosa<\/strong> qui occupaient la r\u00e9gion afin de faire la place \u00e0 4000 colons britanniques.
\n<\/strong>Il a cr\u00e9\u00e9 la ville et en a fait un centre universitaire et religieux.
\nCette cit\u00e9, \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque fi\u00e8re de ces 40 \u00e9glises a \u00e9t\u00e9, depuis la fin de l\u2019apartheid en 1994 remise aux mains d\u2019\u00e9lus Noirs.
\nAujourd’hui, les b\u00e2timents sont toujours bien pr\u00e9sents mais n\u2019ont depuis lors b\u00e9n\u00e9fici\u00e9 d\u2019aucun entretien.
\nLes rues sont sales et pleines d\u2019immondices et l\u2019on y trouve m\u00eame des vaches se nourrissant de ceux-ci.
\nDommage\u00a0!!!<\/p>\n

December 9 \u2013 Grahamstown<\/strong>
\nGrahamstown is situated about 110km north east of Port Elisabeth. It has 70\u2019000 inhabitants (8% white) and is the biggest city of its district. It hosts a big university and the Eastern Cape Division of the High Court. Grahamstown has played an important role in the territory war against the indigenous Xhosa. It has 40 churches!
\n<\/em><\/span>During the last days several people have recommended us to visit Grahamstown for its many churches, the traditional country town style and its historical role.
\n<\/em><\/span>Although you can still see that it must have been a lovely town with big avenues bordered with flowering trees, stylish houses and all the churches, the overall impression is rather neglected. Most of the houses have not been maintained and the side streets are full of litter.<\/span>
\n<\/em>I am sure the fact that it is Sunday and all is closed does not help. We are asked for \u201csome change\u201d every 5 minutes and don\u2019t feel comfortable. All in all rather sad. \ud83d\ude41<\/em>
\nWe hear that white people are leaving the area and with them the jobs disappear. Most of the black people have very little education in this area and are trained not run businesses. We see the same picture in the camping at the border of the town which is run by a black family. The layout and the structure is well though through, it is very green and has even two swimming pools. But there is visibly no maintenance done since years and the place is run down.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Un giratoire attire particuli\u00e8rement notre attention.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les 15’000 Blancs<\/strong> vivant ici se sont retir\u00e9s dans des quartiers prot\u00e9g\u00e9s, entour\u00e9s de barri\u00e8res \u00e9lectrifi\u00e9es\u2026.<\/p>\n

This is one of the fenced compounds the remaining whites retire to. It looks a little bit like a luxury township to us. The world up-side down?<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\u2026\u2026alors que les 45’000 noirs<\/strong> se r\u00e9partissent dans des bidonvilles en p\u00e9riph\u00e9rie de celle-ci et viennent zoner dans les rues du centre en vue d\u2019essayer de soutirer quelques Rands au passant venu y faire ses courses.<\/p>\n

And not so far away one of the traditional townships…<\/span>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous n\u2019y restons pas plus de temps qu\u2019il n\u2019en faut pour y faire rapidement un tour et continuons notre route en mettant le cap au Nord-Est, en direction des Drakensberg <\/strong>(Les montagnes du dragon) qui se trouvent en bordure Est du Lesotho<\/strong>, pays enclav\u00e9 dans l\u2019Afrique du Sud.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Lundi 11 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nLa route y conduisant traverse une r\u00e9gion verdoyante et ondulante qui peut nous faire penser \u00eatre dans les Highland \u00e9cossais.
\nDe nombreux villages exclusivement occup\u00e9s par une population noire s\u2019\u00e9gr\u00e8nent sur le parcours.<\/p>\n

We continue direction north east to the famous Drakensberg mountains<\/strong> that build the eastern border with Lesotho and enclose several National Parks ideal for hiking. We cant wait to get there<\/span> \ud83d\ude42<\/em><\/p>\n

On our way we drive through green hills and valleys that look a little bit like Scotland if there weren\u2019t the typical villages with their round houses (rondavel), groups of playing kids, flocks of goats and small cattle herds.<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Encore une particularit\u00e9 de ce pays qui, lorsque se pr\u00e9sente un tron\u00e7on en travaux, fait que les feux rouges sont remplac\u00e9s en g\u00e9n\u00e9ral par 3 personnes.
\nLa premi\u00e8re agite un drapeau rouge<\/strong> pour attirer l\u2019attention.
\nLa deuxi\u00e8me tourne le panneau Stop\/Go.<\/strong>
\nLa troisi\u00e8me s\u2019occupe de mettre et d\u2019enlever une barri\u00e8re<\/strong> au milieu de la route.
\nEt en g\u00e9n\u00e9ral, une personne opportuniste en profite pour essayer de vendre des fruits et l\u00e9gumes aux automobilistes.<\/p>\n

Our two travel days are interrupted by the occasional road constructions<\/strong> and related road blocks. For this 3 people work together. One waves a red flag to slow the traffic down a few 100m prior to the stop.\u00a0Another one\u00a0flips the stop\/go sign and the third one rolls a barrier on and off the road. During the waiting time there is music and dancing <\/em>\ud83d\ude42<\/em><\/span><\/span>
\nOften there are also excellent and cheap fruits sold at an improvised stall close to the stop sign<\/span> \ud83d\ude42<\/em>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Arriv\u00e9e en milieu d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi \u00e0 Underberg<\/strong>, point de d\u00e9part de la visite des 4 parcs nationaux pr\u00e9sents dans ces montagnes.<\/p>\n

Finally Cobham National Park at the beginning of the Drakensberg mountains… <\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Mardi 11 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nApr\u00e8s la journ\u00e9e de pluie que nous avons eu hier, et qui nous a permis de voyager sans mettre la clim, l\u2019astre du jour est \u00e0 nouveau de la partie pour nous accompagner dans notre randonn\u00e9e du jour dans le parc national Cobham<\/strong>.
\nCelle-ci nous conduit le long de la large vall\u00e9e au fond de laquelle coule la rivi\u00e8re Pholela<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

…with Pholela river hike<\/strong>…<\/span><\/em>
\n\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

C\u2019est le royaume de l\u2019Euplecte \u00e0 longue queue<\/strong> qui en cette p\u00e9riode de reproduction s\u2019\u00e9vertue \u00e0 charmer une femelle en imitant un cerf-volant.<\/p>\n

…Where we see many of the beautiful Long-tailed Widow birds… <\/strong><\/span><\/em>\"\"<\/a>
\nwith their special dance in the air.<\/em><\/span>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Mercredi 12 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nEncore une journ\u00e9e qui s\u2019annonce sous le signe du soleil et qui promet d\u2019\u00eatre chaude.
\nD\u00e9part \u00e0 09h00 pour notre randonn\u00e9e du jour, qui fait une boucle autour de la rivi\u00e8re Troutbeck<\/strong>.
\nUne petite cascade alimente un bassin suffisamment grand pour pouvoir s\u2019y baigner.
\nBrrrr\u2026.l\u2019eau doit au moins avoir dans les 12\u00b0C et je n\u2019y suis pas rest\u00e9 bien longtemps.<\/p>\n

And Troutbeck<\/strong> river<\/strong> hike<\/strong> with a stop at a refreshing waterfall. It is super hot today!<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Le Zekri Tizi Ouzou<\/strong>, crabe d\u2019eau douce a quant \u00e0 lui l\u2019air d\u2019appr\u00e9cier cette fra\u00eecheur.<\/p>\n

Have you ever seen a Sweet Water Crab<\/strong>?<\/span> <\/em>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Jeudi 13 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nLa brume enveloppe les montagnes de son manteau gris, ce qui nous incite \u00e0 changer d\u2019endroit afin de continuer notre d\u00e9couverte des Drakensberg<\/strong> qui marquent la fronti\u00e8re entre le Lesotho<\/strong> et l\u2019Afrique du Sud<\/strong>.
\nUn charmant camping, \u00e0 Mooi<\/strong> River<\/strong> nous accueille pour la nuit.<\/p>\n

Vendredi 14 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nAu programme du jour, le Giant Castle<\/strong> et la \u00ab\u00a0Main Cave<\/strong>\u00a0\u00bb, grotte habit\u00e9e pendant 2000 ans et jusqu\u2019au 19\u00e8me<\/sup> si\u00e8cle par les Bushmans<\/strong> qui ont laiss\u00e9 des traces de leur passage en peignant au moyen d\u2019un m\u00e9lange de blanc d\u2019\u0153uf, de calcaire et de sang (d\u2019animal) des peintures rupestres repr\u00e9sentant des \u00e9v\u00e9nements de leur vie quotidienne.<\/p>\n

Une marche de 45 minutes nous va nous amener sur le site.<\/p>\n

December 14.<\/strong>
\nNext Hike at the Giant Castle National Park<\/strong> to the “Main Caves”<\/strong> with rock paintings.<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Dans la grotte principale, une repr\u00e9sentation d’une famille de Bushmans nous donne une id\u00e9e de la mani\u00e8re dont vivant ce peuple.<\/p>\n

The first cave displays how Bushmen hunter-gatherers<\/strong> may have lived here during the nineteenth century. Bushmen with their distinct \u201cclick\u201d language where the first inhabitants of South Africa (since at least 20\u00a0000 years). The settlement of black farmers in southeast Africa about 1800 years ago affected the access that the Bushmen had to land. The arrival of European colonists in the early nineteenth century increased this pressure and the Bushmen retired into the Drakensberg mountains. Lack of game forced them to steal cattle from the farmers which led in return to an almost complete eradication of the Bushmen here. Today Bushmen still live in Botswana and Namibia but not in South Africa.<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L’une des pierres couverte de peintures rupestres.
\nThe Bushmen are known for their rock painting that is recognised to hold deep spiritual and religious meaning, and the second cave contains exceptional examples of rock paintings unfortunately in parts badly damaged.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

16h00, 2 heures et demie de route nous s\u00e9parent du parc national Injisuthi<\/strong>.
\nPartiellement goudronn\u00e9e avec beaucoup de nids de poule, partiellement piste plus ou moins de bonne qualit\u00e9, c\u2019est \u00e0 la tomb\u00e9e de la nuit que nous arrivons au camp.<\/p>\n

Samedi 15 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>.
\nOn prend nos rep\u00e8res de ce joli camp joliment plac\u00e9 au milieu du cirque des montagnes du Drakensberg<\/strong> et passons la journ\u00e9e \u00e0 flemmer et \u00e0 nous baigner dans la rivi\u00e8re Njesuthi<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

December 15 \u2013 Injisuthi National Park<\/strong><\/em> still in the Drakensberg mountains.
\nOne day of \u201cfare niente\u201d and swimming in the Njesuti river pools \ud83d\ude42<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Dimanche 16 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>.
\nLev\u00e9s \u00e0 5h00, nous d\u00e9marrons \u00e0 06h00 pour notre rando du jour qui va nous demander un peu d\u2019effort et de transpiration car une mont\u00e9e annonc\u00e9e tr\u00e8s raide va nous amener sur un point de vue situ\u00e9 600 m\u00e8tres au-dessus du camp qui est lui, \u00e0 une altitude de 1500 m\u00e8tres.
\nEn regardant o\u00f9 l\u2019on met les pieds, le regard est souvent attir\u00e9 par l\u2019un de ces insectes dont la robe color\u00e9e nous \u00e9merveille \u00e0 chaque fois.<\/p>\n

Followed by an early (6am start), steep hike up the mountains. Another very hot day but great views!
\nAnd some amazing encounters:
\n<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Malgr\u00e9 son camouflage, ce petit cam\u00e9l\u00e9on n’a pas \u00e9chapp\u00e9 \u00e0 nos yeux.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Et bien-s\u00fbr, ces superbes montagnes que l\u2019on dirait couvertes de velours vert.
\n\"\"<\/a>\u00a0\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Lundi 17 d\u00e9cembre
\n<\/strong>D\u00e9cision est prise de franchir la fronti\u00e8re du Lesotho<\/strong> par le Sani Pass<\/strong> dans la journ\u00e9e de mercredi.
\nCe col, situ\u00e9 \u00e0 2873 m\u00e8tres n\u2019est franchissable que par beau temps et par des v\u00e9hicules 4×4 ayant une grande garde au sol.
\nMercredi s\u2019annonce comme \u00e9tant la journ\u00e9e id\u00e9ale, nous reprenons donc la route en direction
\nd\u2019Underberg<\/strong>, o\u00f9 nous \u00e9tions d\u00e9j\u00e0 il y a une semaine, la route du col commen\u00e7ant l\u00e0.<\/p>\n

December 17
\n<\/em><\/span><\/strong>Rather than to continue straight to the northern most part of the Drakensberg National park, we decide to do a little d-tour through Lesotho<\/strong> via the famous unpaved and apparently very rough Sani Pass<\/strong>.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Mardi 18 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nNous passons une partie de la journ\u00e9e \u00e0 faire des courses et \u00e0 travailler sur le blog dans le fort agr\u00e9able restaurant \u00ab\u00a0Lemon tree<\/strong>\u00a0\u00bb qui dispose d\u2019un excellent wifi.
\nEn fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, nous choisissons de nous rendre dans un camping situ\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e de la route du col afin de pouvoir d\u00e9marrer t\u00f4t demain matin pour profiter du beau temps annonc\u00e9.
\nIl faut pr\u00e9ciser que dans ces montagnes du Drakensberg, les journ\u00e9es se ressemblent assez.
\nGrand bleu le matin jusqu\u2019\u00e0 13 heures environ o\u00f9 les cumulus remplissent progressivement le ciel.
\nAux environs de 15 heures, les \u00e9clairs commencent \u00e0 s\u2019activer et l\u2019orage \u00e9clate en nous d\u00e9versant des trombes d\u2019eau pendant une heure environ, apr\u00e8s-quoi la couleur bleue redevient dominante.<\/p>\n

Mercredi 19 d\u00e9cembre<\/strong>
\nD\u00e8s 06h30 nous nous mettons en route pour le Sani Pass<\/strong>.
\nLa premi\u00e8re partie du trajet a \u00e9t\u00e9 goudronn\u00e9e jusqu\u2019\u00e0 un poste de contr\u00f4le qui nous demande de montrer patte blanche.
\nL\u00e0, nous devons nous enregistrer et surtout prouver que notre v\u00e9hicule sera apte \u00e0 gravir la piste montant au col.
\nOn enclenche la traction 4×4 ainsi que la rampante et c\u2019est parti pour les 15 kilom\u00e8tres qui vont nous faire passer de 1400 \u00e0 2873 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude.
\nC\u2019est un certain David Alexander<\/strong> qui a eu l\u2019id\u00e9e en 1955<\/strong> de vouloir passer par l\u00e0 avec un v\u00e9hicule motoris\u00e9 afin de facilitr de transport des marchandises entre la ville de Mokhotlong au Losotho \u00e0 Himeville en Afrique du Sud<\/strong> car seulement les mulets \u00e9taient capables d\u2019effectuer ce trajet jusqu\u2019alors.<\/p>\n

Vu d’ici, \u00e7a para\u00eet pas \u00e9vident.<\/p>\n

December 19<\/strong>
\n<\/em>Weather looks good and we tackle the Sani Pass<\/strong> at 6h30 am (the Sani pass is not recommended for rainy weather since it can get very muddy and slippery).
\n<\/em><\/span>The first few km up to the South African border post are still paved. Then a big panel tells us \u201conly for high clearance 4X4 vehicles<\/strong>\u201d. Ok for us! and once we see the very rocky, uneven track and later the narrow and steep hairpin bents we are very happy to have the perfect car for this!<\/span> <\/em>\ud83d\ude42
\n<\/em>
\n<\/em>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous sommes passablement secou\u00e9s durant la mont\u00e9e mais tout se passe sans encombre.
\nEverything in the cabin including us gets a good shake-up during the very slow and very bumpy ride\u2026<\/em><\/span>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Le col atteint \u2026..
\n…but we get to the 2873m<\/strong> without issues and cross the border to Lesotho<\/strong>!<\/span><\/em>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Reste encore les formalit\u00e9s douani\u00e8res\u00a0rondement men\u00e9es\u00a0avant d’aller prendre un caf\u00e9 dans le pub le plus haut d’Afrique.<\/p>\n

Obligatory stop at the \u201chighest Pub of Africa<\/strong>\u201d!<\/em><\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Et nous voil\u00e0 pr\u00eats pour d\u00e9couvrir le Lesotho dont nous vous parlerons dans notre prochain article.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Cependant, avant de vous quitter, malgr\u00e9 le fait qu’il soit difficile de se mettre dans l’ambiance de No\u00ebl dans cette partie du monde o\u00f9 l’\u00e9t\u00e9 bat son plein nous avons une pens\u00e9e pour chacune et chacun de vous et vous souhaitons de passer de tr\u00e8s belles f\u00eates.<\/p>\n

In our next article we will tell you all about our visit to Lesotho<\/strong>, the small, very little developed mountain country enclosed within South Africa. Until then: <\/em>Merry Xmas and happy holiday season to all of you!<\/u><\/strong><\/em><\/span>
\n<\/em>As far a we are concerned, we will skip the celebrations until we get back to more \u201cXmas-like\u201d weather conditions <\/em><\/span>\ud83d\ude42
\n<\/em>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Amiti\u00e9s de Milke<\/p>\n

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Garden Route – Addo Elephant Park – Drakensberg Dimanche 2 d\u00e9cembre De Mossel Bay \u00e0 presque Port-Elizabeth la c\u00f4te se nomme\u00a0: Garden Route (La route des jardins). On pourrait tout aussi bien l’appeler la Route des Babouins car on les … Continuer la lecture →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_s2mail":"yes","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4531","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4531","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4531"}],"version-history":[{"count":16,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4531\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4750,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4531\/revisions\/4750"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4531"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4531"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4531"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}