{"id":283,"date":"2013-06-01T20:04:14","date_gmt":"2013-06-01T18:04:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/?p=283"},"modified":"2013-06-09T00:21:43","modified_gmt":"2013-06-08T22:21:43","slug":"de-santa-cruz-a-sucre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/de-santa-cruz-a-sucre\/","title":{"rendered":"DE SANTA CRUZ A SUCRE"},"content":{"rendered":"

Bienvenue dans ce\u00a0sixi\u00e8me article qui vous m\u00e8nera de Santa Cruz de la Sierra<\/strong> \u00e0 Sucre<\/strong> en passant par la route du Che<\/strong>.
\nHello again to all of you that follow us on our trip through exiting Latin America.
\nAs you already know we are in Bolivia and we are now on our way through the tropical eastern lowlands and Santa Cruz<\/b> to the southern highlands with the Bolivian capital Sucre<\/b> and the ancient silver city Potosi<\/b>.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Itin\u00e9raire suivi:\"De<\/a><\/p>\n

Santa Cruz de la Sierra s’av\u00e8re une ville pleine de contrastes et agr\u00e9able \u00e0 visiter. Nous irons m\u00eame au th\u00e9\u00e2tre un soir pour y assister\u00a0\u00e0 un concert de musique\u00a0classique.
\nNous y ferons aussi poser des bavettes sur les roues avant de l’Azala\u00ef pour\u00a0minimiser son encrassement\u00a0\u00a0lors des passages sur les pistes boueuses.
\nLe principe fonctionne de la mani\u00e8re suivante: Il faut acheter les pi\u00e8ces chez un revendeur et les faire poser dans un atelier.
\nD\u00e8s 07h30 le matin, nous nous rendons dans le quartier sp\u00e9cialis\u00e9 dans ce genre d’activit\u00e9 et nous arr\u00eatons chez le premier revendeur de pi\u00e8ce d\u00e9tach\u00e9es ouvert \u00e0 cette heure.
\nIl nous sort les bavettes adapt\u00e9es en quelques secondes et nous adresse \u00e0 un atelier situ\u00e9 \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de chez lui.
\nLe m\u00e9cano prend la chose en main et \u00e0 peine une demi-heure apr\u00e8s notre arriv\u00e9e, l’Azala\u00ef se retrouvait avec ses bavettes mont\u00e9es.
\nQuelle efficacit\u00e9! Et tout ceci pour\u00a0\u00e0 peine 15 CHF.
\nNous profitons aussi de faire des courses dans un supermarch\u00e9 dont on nous a vent\u00e9 la qualit\u00e9 de ses fromages. On y trouvera m\u00eame du Reblochon et du Camembert de la fromagerie suisse de Santa Cruz.
\nBon\u00a0! Faut pas exag\u00e9rer, ce n\u2019est pas ce que l\u2019on trouve chez nous mais faut quand m\u00eame pas trop faire les difficiles.
\nSanta Cruz<\/i><\/b> the capital of the eastern lowlands is a lively colourful city with a pleasant central Plaza. We really enjoy the difference to the countryside where we have spent the last weeks and even go to a classical concert!
\nWe also use the opportunity to equip the front wheels of our car with anti-mud flaps (English?). Great idea, since our wheels are larger than the car and every time we are on a dirt road or it rains we cover the car very efficiently with a thick layer of colourful mud.
\nI personally think this makes it look adventurous, but Michel thinks it is horrible and washes the car every time. Usually the very next day it has a new cover in a slightly different colour\u2026
\nWe also fill our fridge with great cheese from a big supermarket (rather rare in South America). To our great amusement the cheese is called \u201cSwiss Reblochon\u201d! and Camembert, and all is produced in Santa Cruz.
\nNo matter what the name, it tastes great with a glass of excellent Bolivian wine (from the south eastern region with perfect Mediterranean wine climate!).\u00a0 <\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

We then continue our road direction east and get to the \u201cLomas de Arena<\/b>\u201d, a large area of perfect sand dunes next to Santa Cruz and in the middle of tropical vegetation. Very surprising and somehow we feel like we will soon see the ocean.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span> <\/i><\/p>\n

Nous pouvons maintenant continuer notre voyage.
\nNous nous rendons au sud de Santa Cruz o\u00f9 bizarrement on trouve une partie d\u00e9sertique avec des dunes de sable comme dans Sahara. Las Lomas de Arena
\n<\/strong>
\nDanse sur fond de sable, Dance in r<\/span>ed, yellow and blue\"008\"<\/a>
\n<\/i>
\nAp\u00e9ritif Caipirinha au coucher de soleil, Caipirinha at Sunset<\/span>\"014\"<\/a><\/i><\/p>\n

Nous prenons maintenant la direction de Sucre<\/b>, capitale constitutionnelle de la Bolivie et nous arr\u00eatons en chemin \u00e0 Bermejo<\/strong> situ\u00e9 \u00e0 900 m\u00e8tres d’altitude.
\nLe d\u00e9cor commence \u00e0 changer et devient montagneux.
\nAgain on the road direction Sucre<\/strong>, we stay for 2 days in the little village Bermejo<\/b> for 2 hikes. One of the 2 ends up being a bit longer than planned since we get lost and end up doing the last 7 km in the bed of a very winding river. We had to cross the river I don\u2019t remember how many times and we finally got back to our village after sunset. Uf, we had already feared to spend the night somewhere outside\u2026 But the scenery was really beautiful <\/i>J<\/i><\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Magnifique m\u00e9lange de roches ocre et de v\u00e9g\u00e9tation d’un vert profond, Typical scenery
\nduring the hikes<\/i>
\n\u00a0\"021\"<\/a><\/i><\/p>\n

Rencontre avec Luis et Fanny la cr\u00eapi\u00e8re, famille bretonne que nous croiserons plusieurs fois.
\nFanny and Luis, a couple from north of France that travels with their two little girls and a real Crepes stove through SA.
\n<\/span>\"007\"<\/a>
\n<\/i><\/p>\n

Maison typique de Bermejo, Typical house in Bermejo<\/span>
\n\"001\"<\/a>
\n<\/i><\/p>\n

Nous effectuerons 2 randonn\u00e9es dont une au Refugio Volcan.
\nRandonn\u00e9e planifi\u00e9e de 12 km qui apr\u00e8s nous \u00eatre perdus nous fera finalement marcher 20 km et arriver la nuit tomb\u00e9e.\"005\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s une bonne nuit de sommeil bien m\u00e9rit\u00e9e, nous reprenons la route et nous arr\u00eaterons \u00e0 Samaipata \u00a0(1750 m\u00e8tres)\u00a0 Samai=repos, pata=en altitude <\/b>dans la langue Quechua.
\nNous y visiterons un site pr\u00e9-Inca \u00ab\u00a0El Fuerte de Samaipata\u00a0\u00bb.<\/b>
\nCe site a \u00e9t\u00e9 construit \u00e0 la m\u00eame \u00e9poque que le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre Machu Pichu p\u00e9ruvien.
\nAfter a well deserved night in our cosy camper van, we <\/span>continue the road to Samaipata<\/b><\/span>
\n(1750m) Samai=rest\u00a0 ,pata=in altitude in <\/span>the local Indian language Quechua.
\nT<\/span>he area is known for the pre-Inca site <\/span>\u201cEl <\/span>Fuerte de Samaipata\u201d.<\/span>
\n<\/b><\/i>\"022\"<\/a>\"026\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Soir\u00e9e cr\u00eapes avec Fanny au Bilig. Real cr\u00eapes fiesta with Fanny!<\/span>
\n\"001\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Petit passage au march\u00e9 avant de continuer en direction de Sucre<\/b>. Stop at the local market to stock-up on fresh vegetables.<\/i>
\n\"044\"<\/a>
\nNous nous mettons ensuite en route pour prendre la direction de Sucre par la route du Che.
\n110 km de route asphalt\u00e9e jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Valle Grande que nous parcourrons en 2 heures, vu les nombreux nids de poule jonchant la chauss\u00e9e, suivie de 45km de piste que nous mettrons 4 heures \u00e0 parcourir.
\nIl faut dire que durant le parcours, un \u00e9trange bruit s\u2019est manifest\u00e9 sur l\u2019Azala\u00ef. Apr\u00e8s analyse, nous avons pu d\u00e9terminer que cela venait de la roue avant.
\nNous d\u00e9cidons de d\u00e9monter la roue et ceci fait, nous voyons un caillou qui s\u2019est coinc\u00e9 entre la protection du disque de frein et le disque lui-m\u00eame.
\nApr\u00e8s avoir r\u00e9gl\u00e9 le probl\u00e8me, nous reprenons la route du Che et la nuit tombante, nous nous arr\u00eaterons \u00e0 La Higuera<\/b>\u00a0 (2050m),<\/b> \u00e0 la posada \u00ab\u00a0Casa del Telegrafista\u00a0\u00bb<\/b> Nous y serons\u00a0 chaleureusement accueillis par Aude, la propri\u00e9taire du lieu.
\nBack on the road, we continue direction la Higuera <\/span>(2050m) a very small village in the middle of the mountains, where Che Guevara <\/span>was captured and killed by the Bolivian army in 1967. The road starts off in <\/span>relatively good conditions and then gets smaller and smaller and turns into a <\/span>little windy very bumpy and sometimes very exposed track. The last 45km take us <\/span>4 hours (including a little inspection of one front wheel where we extract a <\/span>stone from the break). \u00a0We arrive end of <\/span>the day in la Higuera and stay in a beautifully redone Posada. <\/span>The village has a small museum with many photos and details about live and <\/span>death of \u201cEl Che\u201d and even a monument.<\/span>
\n<\/i>
\nAper\u00e7u de la route du Che.
\n\"062\"<\/a> \"051\"<\/a><\/p>\n

La Posada \u00ab\u00a0Casa del Telegrafista\u00a0\u00bb\"069\"<\/a>
\n<\/b><\/p>\n

Notre court s\u00e9jour nous aura aussi permis de conna\u00eetre la fin de Che Guevara<\/b>, gu\u00e9rill\u00e9ro argentin, qui a \u00e9t\u00e9 abattu par l\u2019arm\u00e9e bolivienne au matin du 9octobre 1967 dans l\u2019ancienne \u00e9cole du village qui est maintenant devenue un mus\u00e9e.
\nLa place du village avec les monuments d\u00e9di\u00e9s au Che.\"060\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous serons aussi invit\u00e9s par Aude \u00e0 une pasta party des plus sympathiques. Pasta lunch in the garden of our host.<\/span> <\/i>
\n\"064\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s un deuxi\u00e8me petit d\u00e9jeuner des plus succulents, pr\u00e9par\u00e9 par Aude, nous reprenons la piste qui m\u00eame vers Villa Serrano.
\n<\/b>Nous mettrons 5 heures pour parcourir les 100 km qui s\u00e9parent La Higuera<\/strong> de
\nVilla Serrano<\/b>.
\nOn the road again direction Sucre via Villa Serrano we advance a little faster than the last km before Higuera<\/b>, but with the winding gravel and dirt road still the next 100km still take us 5 hrs.<\/i><\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

Pour y arriver, nous devrons passer le Rio Grande.\"074\"
\n<\/a><\/b><\/p>\n

Le passage se fait sur un magnifique pont suspendu. In the middle of nowhere we cross a surprising new bridge that crosses Rio Grande<\/b>.<\/i><\/span>
\n\"072\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les cactus se d\u00e9veloppent en grand nombre dans cette r\u00e9gion. Around the Rio Grande the vegetation suddenly turns very dry with many cactus.<\/i><\/span>
\n\"077\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous passerons la nuit \u00e0 Villa Serrano et poursuivrons notre route avec un arr\u00eat dans le petit village de Tarabuco. <\/b>We spend the night in Villa Serrano and then climb up to the High Plato and stop at Tarabuco<\/b> (3000m high). The High Plateau and the villages here look rather dry now, but in and after the rainy season an important amount of wheat, rye and maize grows here<\/span>.<\/i>
\n\"010\"<\/a>
\n<\/b>
\nVillage de montagne, perch\u00e9 \u00e0 3000 m\u00e8tres\/mer, dont les principales occupations des
\nhabitants sont la culture du bl\u00e9 (\u00e7a surprend \u00e0 cette altitude) et l\u2019\u00e9levage
\ndes cochons.
\nLes taches jaunes repr\u00e9sentent les champs de bl\u00e9. Field of wheat\"012\"<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

La dame aux cochons. Pigs are often guarded here like sheep.\"083\"<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

La fileuse de laine. Alpaca and its<\/span> produce are an important income for the region.\"004\"<\/a> \"007\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Sa fille ou petite fille\u00a0? Child or grandchild?<\/span>\"006\"<\/a><\/p>\n

En fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, nous arriverons enfin \u00e0 Sucre <\/b>qui est la capitale constitutionnelle de Bolivie.
\nC\u2019est la capitale la plus haute du monde, altitude 2750 m\/mer, construite \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque coloniale.
\nElle est aussi appel\u00e9e\u00a0\u00ab la ville blanche\u00a0\u00bb du fait que tous les immeubles sont peints en blanc.\"028\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous y arrivons en pleine f\u00eate de l\u2019ind\u00e9pendance de l\u2019Espagne (25 mai 1825) et
\nne pourrons \u00e9chapper aux cort\u00e8ges et multiples fanfares qui se sont encha\u00een\u00e9es
\ndurant 3 jours.
\nEnd afternoon we finally get into Sucre<\/b>, the constitutional capital of Bolivia (La Paz works today more as the real capital. A little bit like Bern and Z\u00fcrich?). With its 2750m above sea, Sucre is the highest capital in the world. It was built during the Spanish colonial time and has entirely kept this style with beautiful white buildings, which also gives the city its second name: La ciudad Blanca. We arrive here just in time for the yearly independency celebration and profit during 3 days from colourful parades and festive food (Bolivia gained independence from Spain on 25th<\/sup> of May 1825). <\/i><\/span>\"033\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Plusieurs march\u00e9s haut en couleurs se r\u00e9partissent \u00e0 travers la ville.
\nAs in all cities we visit in South America, the colourful markets are a must for us, including a<\/span>
\nstop for fresh juice. The fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs, spices, handmade tissues and rich odours from all sorts of freshly prepared meals and pastry is each time a great experience! Meat is sold just next to all of this without much cooling and somehow this does not seem to be a big hygiene issue\u2026<\/span>
\n<\/i>
\nSon march\u00e9 paysan. The Farmer Market <\/i><\/span>\"020\"<\/a> \"025\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Son march\u00e9 central. The Central Market. <\/i><\/span>\"038\"<\/a> \"037\"<\/a><\/p>\n

La cuisine du march\u00e9 central. The hot food part of the central market.<\/span>\"039\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Vue de la place Bolivar. Plaza Bolivar<\/i><\/span>\"031\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Notre gourmandise nous fait aussi d\u00e9couvrir une chocolaterie \u00ab\u00a0Chocolates para Ti\u00a0\u00bb qui nous attire dans ses filets. Les chocolats qu\u2019elle propose sont tout simplement d\u00e9licieux et nous y retournerons \u00e0 plusieurs reprises.
\nNous profiterons de faire le plein pour les prochaines semaines.
\nBy chance, we also get to a small chocolate store famous for the area and we obviously have to taste. A little surprised we have to admit that it tastes great!!! Well, maybe not such as surprise once we remember that cocoa and hot chocolate was already produced by the Inca\u2019s and that the best cocoa of the world grows in Bolivia and Columbia\u2026<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

En partance pour notre prochaine destination qui sera Potosi<\/strong> nous tombons sur Alex et Sonia, couple de motards allemands, d\u00e9j\u00e0 rencontr\u00e9s auparavant.
\nDans le cours de la discussion, ils nous recommandent vivement de visiter une Communaut\u00e9 appel\u00e9e Maragua<\/b> construite au fond du crat\u00e8re d\u2019un ancien volcan.
\nA quelques heures de marche de l\u00e0, on y trouve un site o\u00f9 l\u2019on peut y voir des traces de dinosaures.
\nNi une ni deux, nous changeons nos plans et partons pour cette communaut\u00e9 qui se trouve \u00e0 60 km de piste de Sucre.
\nSunday May 26th (we have a hard time to remember date and day\u2026), we leave the hotel early to stock up and some thinks and then leave to Potosi. Close to the supermarket we meet Sonia and Alex, a German couple that explores South America by motorbike. While we catch up on recent experiences, both convince us to do a 2 days d-tour to a small community that lives in a beautiful valley made from a huge old volcano crater and where you can find real Dinosaur foot prints in stone. After all we have no fixed dates and route and can go where we like, as long as we have enough fuel, water and food!<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

On entame la descente du crat\u00e8re. Climbing down the crater wall. <\/i><\/span>\"005\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Palette de couleurs. Amazing colours!<\/i><\/span> \"061\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Further down we stop and ask 2 locals that sit on a heap of boxes and sacks, for directions.
\nAfter explaining the way we find out that the two, Teofilo and his wife, are from the village we want to go to and we agree to give them a ride. Well, we first though we were only taking them, but finally we also load all the dusty boxes and sacks into the Azalai\u2026 At the end this turns out to be a good thing for us since we find our way to the community easily with their help (finding your way is always
\na challenge here since road sings do simply not exist!) and not a bad thing for them, since on this road there is no bus running and for transport you depend on your feet or local cars that pick you up. Given that there are practically no cars in this remote area I am not sure how long they would have needed to wait. In addition Teofilo offers to guide us to the foot prints the next day. Perfect!\u00a0\u00a0<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Vue depuis la communaut\u00e9. View from the village.<\/i><\/span> \"004\"<\/a><\/p>\n

En route pour les traces de dinosaures, champ de bl\u00e9 noir. Hike to the Dinosaur Foot Prints, a field of black wheat.<\/i><\/span>\"037\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Village de paysans. Small village we cross during the hike. <\/i><\/span>
\n\"039\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Enfin les voil\u00e0\u00a0! And here they are!<\/i><\/span> \"046\"<\/a>\"043\"<\/a>
\nAvec notre guide Teofilo que nous avons rencontr\u00e9 en venant au village. Il \u00e9tait au bord de la piste avec sa femme et un amoncellement de sacs.
\nNous nous sommes arr\u00eat\u00e9s vers eux pour demander si nous \u00e9tions sur le bon chemin.
\nApr\u00e8s confirmation, il nous supplie de les emmener \u00e0 la communaut\u00e9 avec tout leur barda.
\nNous h\u00e9sitons un peu avant d\u2019accepter et arriverons avec peine \u00e0 tout charger dans l\u2019Azala\u00ef.
\nEn contrepartie, nous lui demanderons de nous guider sur le site des traces de dinosaures.
\nTeofilo our improvised tour guide.<\/i><\/span> \"052\"<\/a><\/p>\n

En rentrant de la randonn\u00e9e, nous serons accueillis par une mini tornade. Coming home, a little<\/span>
\ntornado welcomes us.<\/span>
\n<\/i>\"075\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Un d\u00e9poussi\u00e9rage des souliers s\u2019impose. In this area, d<\/span>ust is everywhere here and we desperately try to fight it.<\/span>
\n<\/i>\"077\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Fin de cet \u00e9pisode
\nCette fois, nous \u00a0prenons r\u00e9ellement \u00a0la route pour Potosi<\/b> qui sera notre prochaine destination.
\nThis time it is for real, we take off direction Potosi<\/b>.(real miner town at 4000m height! Watch out for the cold temperatures\u2026).<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Amiti\u00e9s \u00e0 toutes et tous.
\nHasta Pronto!<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Bienvenue dans ce\u00a0sixi\u00e8me article qui vous m\u00e8nera de Santa Cruz de la Sierra \u00e0 Sucre en passant par la route du Che. Hello again to all of you that follow us on our trip through exiting Latin America. As you … Continuer la lecture →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_s2mail":"yes","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-283","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/283","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=283"}],"version-history":[{"count":31,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/283\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":381,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/283\/revisions\/381"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=283"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=283"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=283"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}