{"id":1188,"date":"2014-02-12T01:06:14","date_gmt":"2014-02-12T00:06:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/?p=1188"},"modified":"2014-02-12T01:13:13","modified_gmt":"2014-02-12T00:13:13","slug":"antarctique","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/antarctique\/","title":{"rendered":"ANTARCTIQUE"},"content":{"rendered":"

Bienvenue<\/strong> en P\u00e9ninsule Antarctique.
\nSur les pas du Capitaine Robert F. Cook, E. Shackleton, Amundsen
\nqui ont foul\u00e9 pour la premi\u00e8re fois cette terre en 1902.<\/b><\/p>\n

Dans cet article, nous allons parler des 14 jours que nous avons pass\u00e9s dans cette partie du continent Antarctique, plus grand que l\u2019Australie.<\/p>\n

Welcome to the Antarctic Peninsula<\/span>, where Cook, Shackleton, Amundsen and a few others were the first to land in early 1900 to discover the south pool.
\n<\/i><\/b>In this article we talk about our 14 days trip to\u00a0Antarctica, a\u00a0continent that is bigger than the USA.
\nNot counting the time we need for the\u00a0Drake Passage we will have 8 days in\u00a0the area of the Antarctica Peninsula during which we will do 2 landings per day.
\nI Have to admit that we originally had no particular interest to do a 1000km rough see passage to visit a place where it is really cold, no plants grow other than very few <\/i>lichen <\/i>and <\/i>moss <\/i>and you can mainly see ice, water and rocks, and this for a lot of money. But it actually turns out to be one of the big highlights of our SA trip!
\nSo we herewith send a big, big thank you to James, Beate and two Australian couples we met in Ushuaia, for sharing their excitement about Antarctica with us and to finally convince us to visit the big white continent and experience its overwhelming beauty.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

C\u2019est \u00e0 Ushuaia<\/b>, o\u00f9 nous trouvons un billet de derni\u00e8re minute, que nous d\u00e9marrons notre aventure en date du 25 janvier.<\/p>\n

Nous embarquons sur le \u00ab\u00a0Sea Spirit\u00a0\u00bb<\/b>, bateau de la soci\u00e9t\u00e9 canadienne
\n\u00ab\u00a0Quark Expedition<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb.<\/p>\n

So in Ushuaia we set out to find a last minute ticket on. Not easy since we are right in the best season and also one of the boats had an issue and all its passengers needed to be taken by other boats. But after 1 week of waiting in Ushuaia we receive a confirmation for the\u00a0Sea Spirit\u201d that is run by a Canadian company. Not for a double cabin but for 2 beds in triple rooms. Never mind! All that counts now is that we will see Antarctica!
\nThe 25th<\/sup> of Jan we check into our very comfortable cabins. Michel with Mathias from Argentina and Pierro from Italy and I with Regina from Chamonix and Flo from Shanghai.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Mais non ! C’est pas le grand blanc, ni le petit blanc. C’est le bleu \u00e0 gauche ! Here our boat:<\/span><\/em>
\n\"IMG_0713\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Le voil\u00e0 d’un peu plus pr\u00e8s !\u00a0 Not the big one. The small blue one:<\/span><\/em>
\n\"IMG_0714\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L’Antarctique et sa p\u00e9ninsule au Nord-Ouest.
\nAntarctica\u00a0with its peninsula in the North-West:<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Capture\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Et voici le parcours que nous allons et avons effectu\u00e9. Here our trip:<\/span><\/em>
\n\"image<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous\u00a0quittons Ushuaia\u00a0en fin de journ\u00e9e et naviguons en direction du Cap Horn<\/b>.
\nThe evening of Jan 25 the Sea Spirit leaves the harbour direction Cape Horn.
\n<\/i><\/span>
\n\"IMG_714b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous sommes 106 passagers \u00e0 bord et comme il n\u2019y avait plus de cabines doubles \u00e0 disposition, nous devons nous contenter de dormir s\u00e9par\u00e9ment, chacun dans une cabine triple.
\nSylke<\/strong> partage la sienne avec Regina<\/strong>, une Fran\u00e7aise vivant en Californie et Flo<\/strong>, une Chinoise.
\nPour ma part, je suis avec Pierro<\/strong>, un Italien de la r\u00e9gion de Milan et Mathias<\/strong>, un Argentin de Salta.
\nNous sommes encadr\u00e9s par une \u00e9quipe de 15 experts de Quark Expedition<\/strong> et de 63 membres d\u2019\u00e9quipage.
\nA peine mont\u00e9s sur le bateau, nous nous r\u00e9unissons dans la \u00ab\u00a0Ocean Lounge<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb pour une s\u00e9ance concernant les mesures de s\u00e9curit\u00e9, suivie d\u2019une autre durant laquelle on nous remet une parka jaune que nous pourrons garder par la suite ainsi qu\u2019une paire de bottes.<\/p>\n

Right after getting the 106 passengers on board we have our first meeting with the staff including a safety briefing followed by an exercise for abandoning the ship. Not very reassuring to envisage such an exercise sailing past Cape Horn through the Drake Passage, the recognised wildest see passage on earth and water temperatures around 4 \u00b0C\u2026<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_0716\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous nous r\u00e9unissons ensuite \u00e0 nouveau pour la pr\u00e9sentation de l\u2019\u00e9quipage.
\nNous apprenons par ailleurs que nous avons le privil\u00e8ge de compter parmi l\u2019\u00e9quipe de Quark\u00a0: Falcon Scott<\/strong>, petit-fils du \u00ab\u00a0Capitaine Scott\u00a0<\/strong>\u00bb, grand explorateur ayant p\u00e9ri en Antarctique lors du retour d\u2019une exp\u00e9dition au P\u00f4le Sud en 1912.
\nNous avons \u00e9galement \u00e0 bord un autre personnage c\u00e9l\u00e8bre en la personne de Jonathan Shackleton<\/strong>, petit-cousin de l\u2019explorateur Sir Ernest Shackleton<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

During the introduction session we also learn that Falcon Scott, the grand son of the famous explorer Scott and Jonathan Shackleton the cousin of the equally famous Sir Shackleton are on board with us to give lectures on their famous ancestors. Together with the passionate historian Victoria, both are great to bring the history of Antarctic discovery to live for us. So much better than reading a book!<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Falcon Scott \u00e0 gauche et Jonathan Shackleton \u00e0 droite. Falcon Scott (l), Jonathan Shackleton (r)<\/span><\/em><\/span>
\n\"IMG_0817\"<\/a>
\n<\/i><\/p>\n

Le lendemain matin, en vue du Cap Horn, le \u00ab\u00a0Sea Spirit\u00a0<\/strong>\u00bb jette l\u2019ancre en face du phare et du monument d\u00e9di\u00e9 aux marins perdus en mer \u00e0 son passage, nous avons la chance que les conditions m\u00e9t\u00e9o soient \u00a0suffisamment bonnes et que les Chiliens nous donnent l\u2019autorisation pour y d\u00e9barquer.
\n
\nThe next morning we arrive at Cape Horn and are lucky to get the Chilean approval for landing at this legendary island. Despite increasing wind speed and wave size Shane the expedition leader decides for a short visit. Back on board we all feel quite adventurous after this stormy visit and the rather wet
\nand bumpy zodiac ride ashore.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_0723\"<\/a> \"IMG_0729\"<\/a> \"IMG_0734\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Il y a m\u00eame une chapelle.
\n\"IMG_0742b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les conditions m\u00e9t\u00e9o se renforcent et nous ne tardons pas trop \u00e0 retourner au bateau.
\nNous mettons ensuite le cap au sud et commen\u00e7ons la travers\u00e9e du \u00ab\u00a0Passage de Drake<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb en
\ndirection de la P\u00e9ninsule Antarctique<\/b>.
\nLe vent atteint les 40kn avec des rafales \u00e0 50kn (plus de 90 km\/h) et les vagues d\u00e9ferlent d\u2019une hauteur de 8 m\u00e8tres.
\nLes premiers sympt\u00f4mes du mal de mer se font sentir chez plusieurs passagers, dont Sylke.<\/p>\n

La journ\u00e9e se passe en pr\u00e9sentations diverses sur des sujets comme les oiseaux de l\u2019Antarctique dont les plus connus sont l\u2019Albatros <\/b>qui peut atteindre plus de 3 m\u00e8tres d\u2019envergure pour ceux de la plus grande des 3 familles existantes.
\nLes P\u00e9trels<\/b> g\u00e9ants<\/b> sont aussi tr\u00e8s nombreux dans cette r\u00e9gion du globe.
\nMerel<\/b>, notre biologiste marine du bord nous apprend plein de choses sur les baleines.
\nPour la derni\u00e8re pr\u00e9sentation du jour nous visionnons un film, tourn\u00e9 en 1929 sur le passage du Cap Horn par un clipper de l\u2019\u00e9poque.<\/p>\n

The next 2 days we spend cruising the Drake Passage and sure enough wind up to 50kn and good sized waves accompany us. The corridors of the ship are decorated with little white paper bags for those that might need them\u2026 The days are organised between really good presentations on marina wild life, geology and Antarctic history from the very qualified staff and excellent food, for those that are not sea sick like me\u2026 The few that go to the 2nd<\/sup> dinner need to hold their glasses and cutlery to keep them from falling off the table and the waiters become quite artistic in serving the dishes. We have no idea how the kitchen personnel is able to do their job\u2026<\/i><\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Albatros et P\u00e9trels suivent le bateau tout au long de la travers\u00e9e.
\nSee b<\/span>irds acompany us all along the way:
\n<\/span><\/em>
\n\"IMG_749c\"<\/a> \"IMG_749d\"<\/a> \"RosemaryKoenig_0683\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous sommes, en ce matin du 27 janvier, pr\u00e8s du 60\u00e8me<\/sup> parall\u00e8le sud et il nous reste 24 heures de navigation avant d\u2019atteindre notre point d\u2019entr\u00e9e en Antarctique, le \u00ab\u00a0Canal Lemaire\u00a0\u00bb<\/b>.
\nLa journ\u00e9e est rythm\u00e9e par des conf\u00e9rences sur la g\u00e9ologie, la faune marine et l\u2019histoire de la d\u00e9couverte de la p\u00e9ninsule Antarctique par Jean-Baptiste Charcot<\/b>, Fran\u00e7ais d\u2019origine, venu en premi\u00e8re exp\u00e9dition de 1904 \u00e0 1906 avec son 3 m\u00e2ts \u00ab\u00a0Le Fran\u00e7ais<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb.
\nIl y reviendra une deuxi\u00e8me fois avec le \u00abPourquoi pas<\/b>\u00bb, beaucoup plus gros et cartographiera plus de 1200 miles de c\u00f4tes durant son exploration.<\/p>\n

The next 2 days we spend cruising the Drake Passage and sure enough wind up to 50kn and good sized waves accompany us. The corridors of the ship are decorated with little white paper bags for those that might need them\u2026 The days are organised between really good presentations on marina wild life, geology and Antarctic history from the very qualified staff and excellent food, for those that are not sea sick like me\u2026 The few that go to the 2nd<\/sup> dinner need to hold their glasses and cutlery to keep them from falling off the table and the waiters become quite artistic in serving the dishes. We have no idea how the kitchen personnel is able to do their job\u2026
\n<\/i><\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Nous arrivons au petit matin du 4\u00e8me<\/sup> jour en vue du \u00ab\u00a0Canal Lemaire\u00a0\u00bb<\/b> et d\u00e8s notre r\u00e9veil, d\u00e9couvrons un merveilleux spectacle de glace.<\/p>\n

Early morning of Jan 28 we arrive at our destination.\u00a0The water is totally still, the air is crystal clear and the rising sun makes all floating ice and surrounding cliffs sparkle. We are suddenly in a different world and its beauty and pureness is breath taking. It is perfectly still and the boat very slowly makes its way through the many floating ice floes and small ice bergs versus the narrow \u201cCanal Lemaire\u201d.<\/b> Our boat is not an icebreaker and luckily the ice has opened enough for us to find a passage. A week earlier we are told the small\u00a0chanel was still blocked.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_0751\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Il fait grand soleil et d\u00e9j\u00e0, nous voyons nos premiers phoques se pr\u00e9lasser au soleil, couch\u00e9s sur des glaces d\u00e9rivantes affleurant la surface.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_0753\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Le bateau se fraie un passage au milieu d\u2019une mer jonch\u00e9e d\u2019icebergs et <\/span>vers les 08h00, nous atteignons notre premier point de d\u00e9barquement, \u00ab\u00a0PETERMANN \u00a0ISLAND\u00a0\u00bb.
\n<\/b><\/span><\/span>D\u00e8s notre arriv\u00e9e, nous nous trouvons au milieu de colonies de pingouins “Gentoo”<\/strong> d\u00e9ambulant d\u2019une mani\u00e8re gauche et s\u2019occupant de leur prog\u00e9niture.
\nNous sommes demand\u00e9s de ne pas nous approcher \u00e0 plus de 5 m\u00e8tres des animaux mais leur curiosit\u00e9 est telle que ce sont eux qui se d\u00e9placent quelques fois vers nous.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

At 8:00am we reach our first landing point \u201cPeterman Island\u201d<\/b>. We transfer with the zodiacs rather smoothly this time and land close to a Gentoo<\/b> Penguin<\/b> colony. The little animals are super quite with their funny way of walking and their fluffy chicks. We are asked to keep minimum 5m distance, but sometimes the curious penguins waddle closer and stretch their necks to observe us with their little round eyes.
\nThe absence of land predators in all Antarctica makes all animals on land rather fearless and during our stay here we only need to use our binoculars<\/i> <\/i><\/span>on the water. Apparently very different to the Arctic where polar bears and foxes are present.
\nAs you can see, to be adapted to the harsh weather conditions and sometimes wet zodiac rides everybody receives a double layered water proof jacket and thick rubber boots. In addition a waterproof\u00a0 trouser, layered clothing, gloves, sunscreen and sunglasses are obligatory. We feel a little handicapped with all this but even after 3 hours on land and up to 4 hours in the zodiac we still are not totally frozen.\u00a0 <\/i>
\n<\/span>
\n\"IMG_0778\"<\/a> \"IMG_0776\"<\/a> <\/i><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/i>L\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, c\u2019est sur \u00a0\u00ab\u00a0PLENEAU \u00a0ISLAND\u00a0\u00bb<\/b> que nous posons le pied pour nous rendre au sommet de l\u2019\u00eele et y admirer un panorama des plus f\u00e9eriques.<\/p>\n

In the afternoon we \u00a0visit\u00a0<\/i>\u201c<\/i><\/b>Pleneau Island\u00a0<\/i><\/b>\u201d <\/i><\/b>and admire the wonderful panorama from the top of a hill.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_0803\"<\/a>
\n<\/i><\/p>\n

Avant de retourner au bateau, nous profitons de faire un petit tour de dinghy pour admirer les majestueux icebergs.
\nLater on we cruise with the Zodiacs around imressive icebergs in the bey:
\n<\/span><\/em>
\n\"IMG_0830\"<\/a> \"IMG_0844\"<\/a> \"IMG_0851\"<\/a> \"IMG_0860\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"IMG_0973d\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1288\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les phoques sont aussi de la partie.
\n\"IMG_0839\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Durant la nuit, nous nous sommes d\u00e9plac\u00e9s au large de \u00ab\u00a0GOUDIER ISLAND\u00a0\u00bb<\/b>.
\nL\u00e0 aussi, nous nous retrouvons au milieu de colonies de pingouins Gentoo<\/b> et Adelie.<\/b><\/p>\n

In the morning of the next day, we land in \u201cGoudier Island<\/b>\u201d where we visit a Gentoo<\/b> and Adeline<\/b> Penguin<\/b> colony.<\/span><\/p>\n

Later we cross over to \u201cPort Lockroy\u201d <\/i><\/b><\/span>the first English base in Antarctica that was recently renovated and now serves as a museum and the most southern post office of the world. The 3 to 5 people that work here to maintain the museum and the base usually stay for a short summer season and are paid by a trust. How strange to find a museum in this environment and with sooo little visitors, but it is wonderful to see how scientists and explorers lived here beginning of the 20st century. They ate Penguins and seals but were otherwise totally dependent on the very few supply ships. <\/span>
\nThe rare other bases we see on our trip are\u00a0only scientifically used by Argentinians, Brits or Polish.
\n<\/span><\/i>
\nLes Gentoo,\u00a0Gentoo pinguins:<\/span><\/em><\/span>\"IMG_0889\"<\/a> \"IMG_0896\"<\/a>
\n<\/i><\/p>\n

Il est int\u00e9ressant de noter que les pingouins ne viennent \u00e0 terre que pour \u00e9lever leurs petits durant environs cinq mois par ann\u00e9e, de fin octobre \u00e0 mi-mars. Le reste, ils le passent au large.
\nIt is also interesting to know, that Penguins only go on shore to reproduce between October and March. The rest of the year they stay in the see. A thick blubber layer insulates them perfectly well in water temperatures around 3\u00b0C. <\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1163\"<\/a> \"IMG_1163b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les adultes profitent de la belle saison pour changer de robe.
\nOnce the chicks don’t need the partents anymore and before leaving\u00a0the land for several months the adults need to change their feathers, which takes roughly 2 weeks and seems to be quite exhausting:<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1310\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les Ad\u00e9lies, and Adelie pinguins:
\n<\/span><\/em>\"IMG_0785\"<\/a><\/p>\n

C\u2019est au tour de PORT LOCKROY <\/b>de recevoir notre visite.
\n<\/b>C\u2019est une base Anglaise, totalement r\u00e9nov\u00e9e, qui sert de mus\u00e9e, de bureau de poste (le plus austral du monde) et aussi de boutique souvenir pour les touristes qui viennent visiter l\u2019Antarctique.<\/p>\n

Later we cross over to \u201cPort Lockroy\u201d <\/b>the first English base in Antarctica that was recently renovated and now serves as a museum and the most southern post office of the world. The 3 to 5 people that work here to maintain the museum and the base usually stay for a short summer season and are paid by a trust. How strange to find a museum in this environment and with sooo little visitors, but it is wonderful to see how scientists and explorers lived here beginning of the 20st century. They ate Penguins and seals but were otherwise totally dependent on the very few supply ships.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_0918\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les dinghys nous ayant ramen\u00e9s \u00e0 bord, le Sea Spirit<\/b> met le cap sur
\n\u00ab\u00a0PARADISE HARBOR\u00a0\u00bb.
\n<\/b>Arriv\u00e9s \u00e0 destination, nous d\u00e9barquons \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0Almirante Brown Station<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb et montons sur un point de vue nous permettant de profiter d\u2019une vue plongeante sur toute la baie.<\/p>\n

In the afternoon we sail to \u201cParadise Harbour\u201c <\/b>an enormous bay surrounded with huge glaciers and snow covered mountains. It is a super sunny day without any wind. Water and icebergs glitter in the sunlight and the 360\u00b0view from the point we clime up to is overwhelming. <\/span>
\nFor me of all the beautiful places we visited during this trip this is my favourite.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\"IMG_0924\"<\/a> \"IMG_0948\"<\/a> \"IMG_0934\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Il est maintenant temps de pr\u00e9parer nos affaires en vue de notre nuit de camping.
\nD\u00e8s le repas du soir termin\u00e9, nous embarquons sur les dinghys qui nous am\u00e8nent sur une \u00eele qui va nous servir de refuge pour la nuit.<\/p>\n

To experience the real thing, tonight a small group of very brave people (including us!) will camp on land in front of a glacier. The real thing means to feel terribly<\/span> cold while you try to fall asleep in your 5 layer sleeping bag (no tent) but also to Watch a several hour sunset:<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1007\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"IMG_0989\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous restons \u00e9veill\u00e9s jusqu\u2019au milieu de la nuit \u00e0 admirer les couleurs du ciel \u00e9voluant au fur et \u00e0 mesure du coucher du soleil.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_1002\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s quelques histoires racont\u00e9es par nos deux c\u00e9l\u00e9brit\u00e9s, Falcon Scott<\/b> et Ernest Shackleton<\/b>, nous nous enfilons dans nos sacs \u00e9tanches, et dormons \u00e0 la belle \u00e9toile.
\nEn fait d\u2019\u00e9toiles, parlons-en, nous n\u2019en verrons pas car la lumi\u00e8re du jour nous accompagne toute la nuit.
\n<\/b>Au petit matin, la temp\u00e9rature \u00e9tant nettement inf\u00e9rieure \u00e0 z\u00e9ro, nous h\u00e9sitons de nous extraire de notre douillet cocon.<\/p>\n

Early morning the inside of the sleeping bag is finally nice and warm, so getting up is rather difficult\u2026<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1004\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

De retour au bateau, apr\u00e8s une bonne douche bien chaude et un copieux petit-d\u00e9jeuner, notre capitaine nous am\u00e8ne \u00e0 \u00ab CUVERVILLE \u00a0ISLAND\u00a0\u00bb<\/b>, \u00eele rocheuse bord\u00e9e par une falaise de glace de 200 m\u00e8tres de haut.
\nCette \u00eele donne abri \u00e0 la plus grande colonie de pingouins Gentoo<\/b> de la r\u00e9gion.<\/p>\n

While the boat transports us to \u201cCuverville Island\u00a0\u201c<\/b>all campers take a well deserved really hot shower.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1235b\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1024\"<\/a> \"IMG_1033\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, nous nous rendons dans \u00ab\u00a0ANTVORD\u00a0 BAY<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb et d\u00e9barquons \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0NEKO HARBOR<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb
\nC\u2019est endroit est connu pour offrir une vue spectaculaire sur les glaciers.<\/p>\n

The afternoon stop at \u201cNeko Harbour\u201d p<\/b>rovides us with a new angle since this time we have a marvellous view from above on one of the most active glaciers in the area. <\/i>The exceptional good weather is still with us!!!<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1121\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1052\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"IMG_0973\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous vivons aujourd\u2019hui notre septi\u00e8me jour depuis le d\u00e9part et notre quatri\u00e8me jour au milieu des glaces.
\nNous nous trouvons dans la\u00a0 \u00ab\u00a0PENINSULE \u00a0ARCTOWSKI\u00a0\u00bb<\/b>.
\nNous d\u00e9barquons \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0ORNE HARBOUR\u00a0\u00bb<\/b> et gravissons le \u00ab\u00a0Spirot Peak\u00a0\u00bb<\/b> qui culmine \u00e0 286 m\u00e8tres. L\u00e0 aussi, nous profitons d\u2019un panorama dont on ne peut pas se lasser.
\nC\u2019est l\u2019habitat choisi par une colonie de pingouins Chinstrap<\/b> qui vit au sommet du pic et fait le trajet depuis la mer plusieurs fois par jour pour aller chercher de la nourriture pour leur prog\u00e9niture.<\/p>\n

Early on our 4th day in Antarctica we climb up to \u201cSpirot Peak\u201d on peninsula Arctowski, which culminates at 286m. Here we see our 3rd<\/sup> Penguin species called \u201cChinstrap\u201d quite appropriately. It is impressive to see how these little creatures with very short legs climb all the way up through snow and rocks several times per day to feed their chicks.
\n<\/span>
\n\"IMG_0973c\"<\/a><\/i><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1146\"<\/a> \"IMG_1142\"<\/a> \"IMG_1138\"<\/a> \"IMG_1129\"<\/a> \"IMG_1127\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s cette visite, nous appareillons en vue de nous rendre \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0ENTREPRISE ISLAND\u00a0\u00bb<\/b>.
\nAyant aper\u00e7u des baleines \u00e0 bosse durant notre navigation, le capitaine arr\u00eate le bateau et nous passons tout l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi sur les dinghys \u00e0 suivre le spectacle qu\u2019elles nous offrent en \u00e9voluant tr\u00e8s pr\u00e8s de nous.
\nNous avons m\u00eame le plaisir d\u2019en voir passer quatre en m\u00eame temps exactement sous notre dinghy.<\/p>\n

Today\u2019s afternoon stop is planned for \u201cEnterprise island\u201d <\/b>but the captain sights Humpback
\nwhales<\/b> in \u201cWilhelmina Bey\u201d<\/b> and the decisions is taken to go for a zodiac ride right here. This turns out to be the best decision of the whole trip and we spend 4 hours on the water between various groups of huge whales feeding on krill. We counted up to 15 and they come really close! Late afternoon we are also spoiled with 2 wales jumping 10m in front of our zodiac and a group of more than 10 Orcas circling around us! Even the expedition leader with 19 years of experience says he has never seen <\/span>anything like it.<\/span><\/i>
\n
\n\"IMG_1226\"<\/a> \"IMG_1218\"<\/a> \"IMG_1226b\"<\/a> \"IMG_1218b\"<\/a> \"IMG_1235\"<\/a><\/i><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

En fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, c\u2019est un groupe d\u2019une quinzaine d\u2019orques qui nous fait le plaisir de passer \u00e0 notre port\u00e9e et l\u00e0 aussi, trois de ceux-ci viennent admirer notre dinghy depuis dessous.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_1235a\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s cette fantastique journ\u00e9e, nous nous d\u00e9pla\u00e7ons vers\u00a0 \u00ab\u00a0Hughes Bay\u00a0\u00bb.
\n<\/b>Nous faisons 2 heures de navigation avec les dinghys dans la \u00ab\u00a0CIERVA COVE\u00a0\u00bb.<\/b>
\nNous avons la chance de voir \u00e9voluer trois baleines\u00a0 Minke<\/b> qui s\u2019amusent \u00e0 faire des ronds autour du dinghy et aussi de faire des passages juste en dessous.<\/p>\n

We don\u2019t expect the next day in \u201cHughes Bay\u201d<\/b> to be as spectacular but we still are able to spend some time with 3 Minke<\/b> whales<\/b> in close proximity of our Zodiac and get to see a Leopard Seal<\/b> on an ice floe. Leopard Seals have a really big mouth that opens 180\u00b0 and feed on penguins and Crab eater seals.<\/span>
\n<\/i><\/p>\n

Durant notre exploration, nous d\u00e9couvrons \u00e9galement un\u00a0 phoque l\u00e9opard <\/b>qui se pr\u00e9lasse sur un iceberg flottant \u00e0 ras l\u2019eau.
\nIl daigne \u00e0 peine lever la t\u00eate lorsque nous l\u2019approchons \u00e0 moins de 5 m\u00e8tres.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_1260\"<\/a> \"IMG_1263\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Remont\u00e9s \u00e0 bord, nous nous d\u00e9pla\u00e7ons durant la pause de midi de ce huiti\u00e8me jour d\u2019exp\u00e9dition sur la c\u00f4te sud de l\u2019\u00eele de TRINITY<\/b>.
\nNous ancrons \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0MIKKELSEN\u00a0 HARBOUR\u00a0\u00bb<\/b> nom donn\u00e9 par Klarius Mikkelsen<\/b>, capitaine Norv\u00e9gien venu ici pour chasser la baleine.
\nC\u2019est endroit \u00e9tait utilis\u00e9 pour ancrer les bateaux usine qui proc\u00e9daient \u00e0 la transformation de la graisse en huile.
\nNous d\u00e9couvrons un squelette de baleine bleue qui nous donne une bonne id\u00e9e de son \u00e9norme taille. Elles peuvent atteindre jusqu\u2019\u00e0 34 m\u00e8tres de long.<\/p>\n

In the afternoon, in \u201cMikkelsen Harbour\u201d <\/i><\/b>on \u201cTrinity Island\u201d <\/b><\/i>where whale hunting ships used to anchor and process the whale oil, we find enormous blue wale skeletons. Early 1900 whale hunting was really big in the area between the South Georgian Islands and Antarctica. To such an extent that the blue whale population has still not recovered and maybe never will.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1313\"<\/a> \"IMG_0898\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1291\"<\/a> \"IMG_1302\"<\/a> \"IMG_1297\"<\/a><\/i><\/p>\n

Des pingouins Gentoo<\/b> profitent d\u2019une journ\u00e9e sans vent pour s\u2019admirer dans le reflet de l\u2019eau.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_1317\"<\/a> \"IMG_1318\"<\/a> \"IMG_1321\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Aujourd\u2019hui, nous entrons dans L\u2019 \u00abANTARTIC\u00a0 SOUND\u00a0\u00bb<\/b>.
\nPassage \u00e0 l\u2019est de la p\u00e9ninsule qui nous permet de venir flirter avec la banquise et ses glaciers tabulaires.<\/p>\n

On the 1st of Feb, the 8th day of our trip, we enter the \u201cAntarctic Sound<\/b>\u201d with the aim to cross from the west to east of the Antarctic Peninsula to discover pack ice and the famous, big size \u201ctable top icebergs\u201d.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1360\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous d\u00e9barquons dans la matin\u00e9e sur l\u2019\u00eele de \u00ab\u00a0GOURDIN\u00a0\u00bb <\/b>qui est un endroit assez exceptionnel du fait que trois familles de pingouins y ont \u00e9tabli leur colonie en ce lieu (Les Chinstrap, les Gentoo et les Adelie).
\n<\/b>Les petits sont en train de perdre leur laine de b\u00e9b\u00e9 et mettent leurs plumes d\u2019adulte. Ils seront bient\u00f4t pr\u00eats \u00e0 aller prendre leur premier bain.<\/p>\n

On our way we stop on \u201cGordin<\/b>\u201d to see Chinstraps, Gentoos, and Adelies nest in the same area, which <\/i>is quite unusual.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1327\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les parents\u00a0font des allers et retours dans l\u2019eau pour y p\u00eacher le krill qu\u2019ils vont ramener \u00e0 leurs petits.
\nThe parents walk\u00a0between the see and the chicks on what is called “pinguin higways”:<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1456\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les\u00a0propres sont ceux qui reviennent de la mer, les sales ceux qui y vont !
\nThe clean ones come from the sea, the dirty ones are on their way to the sea:\u00a0<\/span><\/em>
\n\"IMG_1460\"<\/a>
\n<\/i>
\nEn ce qui concerne la sortie de l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, nous esp\u00e9rons d\u00e9barquer \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0BROWN BLUFF\u00a0\u00bb.
\n<\/b>C\u2019est une falaise de 745 m\u00e8tres de haut issue d\u2019un volcan.
\nMalheureusement, la glace en a d\u00e9cid\u00e9 autrement.
\nLa banquise est encore trop dense et emp\u00eache le \u00ab\u00a0Sea Spirit\u00a0\u00bb<\/b> de s\u2019en approcher sans encourir le risque de se retrouver bloqu\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

Our afternoon destination \u201cBrown Bluff<\/b>\u201d will remain unreachable for us. There is too much see ice floating around us <\/i>and the wind moves it direction shore. With this we risk to be blocked. You may have heard about another ship that got stuck in pack ice for 3 weeks in December\u2026<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1350\"<\/a><\/p>\n

En contrepartie, le chef d\u2019exp\u00e9dition d\u00e9cide de mettre les dinghys \u00e0 l\u2019eau pour aller faire un tour pr\u00e8s d\u2019un \u00e9norme glacier tabulaire de presque deux kilom\u00e8tres de long.
\n
\n<\/i>Instead we have a closer look at one of these enormous
\ntable top ice bergs. This one is roughly 2 km long and 1 km wide!<\/i><\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1364\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

De retour au bateau, c\u2019est le \u00ab\u00a0Bain Antarctique<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb qui est organis\u00e9. Il s\u2019agit, pour les plus courageux, de sauter \u00e0 la mer dans une eau dont la temp\u00e9rature est de 3\u00b0 Celsius.<\/p>\n

Back on board the staff has prepared the \u00abPolar Jump<\/b>\u00bb.<\/span>\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n

Les 35 courageux s\u2019\u00e9tant r\u00e9chauff\u00e9s, le Sea Spirit reprend la direction du nord et quitte progressivement les glaces de l\u2019\u00abANTARTIC\u00a0 SOUND\u00a0\u00bb<\/b><\/p>\n

35 very courageous passengers jump into the 3 \u00b0C cold water. Michel and I prefer to put our warm clothes on and watch\u00a0the show. <\/span>
\nThe weather is still beautifully sunny and calm, but later in the evening a strong wind starts to blow.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1397\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s avoir navigu\u00e9 toute la nuit, nous sommes en vue des \u00eeles \u00ab\u00a0SOUTH SHETLAND \u00a0\u00bb<\/b>.
\nNous nous rendons dans \u00ab\u00a0ADMIRALITY\u00a0 BAY\u00a0\u00bb<\/b>.
\nAu fond de celle-ci, l\u2019\u00eele de \u00ab\u00a0King George\u00a0\u00bb<\/b> abrite la station de recherche Polonaise \u00ab\u00a0ARCTOWSKI\u00a0 STATION\u00a0\u00bb.
\n<\/b>Nous somme sens\u00e9s y d\u00e9barquer mais l\u00e0 encore, les \u00e9l\u00e9ments en ont d\u00e9cid\u00e9 autrement.
\nLe vent souffle \u00e0 35kn avec des rafales \u00e0 45kn (83 km\/h) et des vagues de 4 \u00e0 5 m\u00e8tres entourent le bateau. De plus il neige.
\nDans ces conditions, impossible de sortir les dinghys pour d\u00e9barquer \u00e0 terre.
\n
\n<\/i>After a full nigh of cruising in a more and more agitated see, we get to the South Shetlands\u201d, where two visits ashore are planned for today. The wind peaks at 45kn, heavy clouds cover the sky and it is snowing. Not the same atmosphere as the days before, but a good demonstration of a typical weather change in these latitudes. The whole day the waves are too high (4-5m) to ride the zodiacs ashore and we spend a more or less relaxing day on the boat.<\/span><\/i><\/i><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1401\"<\/a> \"IMG_1406\"<\/a>
\nNous continuons notre route et arrivons au petit matin du 11\u00e8me<\/sup> jour pr\u00e8s de l\u2019entr\u00e9e du crat\u00e8re de \u00ab\u00a0DECEPTION\u00a0 ISLAND\u00a0\u00bb. <\/b>C\u2019est un volcan toujours en activit\u00e9 dont la derni\u00e8re \u00e9ruption remonte \u00e0 1969.
\nLe Sea Spirit <\/b>s\u2019enfile dans la partie effondr\u00e9e du crat\u00e8re qui laisse un passage 300 m\u00e8tres entre ses deux flancs et jette l\u2019ancre dans \u00ab\u00a0WHALERS\u00a0 BAY<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb, pr\u00e8s de \u00ab\u00a0PORT FOSTER\u00a0<\/b>\u00bb.
\nEtant \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur du crat\u00e8re, nous sommes suffisamment abrit\u00e9s du vent pour que les dinghys puissent nous amener \u00e0 terre.
\nNous visitons cette ancienne base Norv\u00e9gienne de traitement de la graisse de baleine, laiss\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019abandon en 1932, car, ayant \u00e9t\u00e9 chass\u00e9es et tu\u00e9es \u00e0 l\u2019exc\u00e8s, leur nombre n\u2019\u00e9tait plus suffisant pour\u00a0 la maintenir.
\nLes Argentins en ont fait ensuite une base scientifique qu\u2019ils ont d\u00fb \u00e9vacuer en 1969, le volcan \u00e9tant entr\u00e9 en \u00e9ruption.
\nDurant notre court s\u00e9jour \u00e0 terre, le vent et la neige se lient pour donner une atmosph\u00e8re fantomatique \u00e0 cet endroit.<\/p>\n

For the next day we are heading to \u201cDeception Island\u201d<\/b> a still active volcano (last eruption 1969). The crater has partly collapsed on one side and the sea has entered. The entrance is deep enough for ships to enter and we find relatively calm waters inside the cauldron. What an experience to sail right into a volcano! <\/span>
\nThe weather has not changed since yesterday, but since there are very little waves we can easily get to the shore. Ashore we wander through the remains of a big waling station that was abandoned in 1932. We admire the rugged landscape which appears strangely black and white with the very little light that filters through the heavy clouds.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/a> \"IMG_1433\"<\/a> \"IMG_1436\"<\/a> \"OLYMPUS<\/a> \"OLYMPUS<\/a>
\n\"IMG_1422\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1441\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous arrivons gentiment \u00e0 la fin de notre aventure et il ne nous reste plus qu\u2019une sortie avant notre retour vers Ushuaia.
\nShane<\/b>, notre chef d\u2019exp\u00e9dition nous am\u00e8ne \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0HALF MOON ISLAND<\/b>\u00a0\u00bb qui se trouve entre \u00ab\u00a0Greenwich Island\u00a0\u00bb<\/b> et \u00ab Livingston Island\u00a0\u00bb<\/b>.
\nNous pouvons pour la derni\u00e8re fois y admirer une colonie de pingouins Chinstrap<\/strong>, mais aussi des phoques \u00e0 fourrure et m\u00eame un \u00e9l\u00e9phant de mer.<\/p>\n

This afternoon we get to our last island before turning back to Ushuaia. The weather conditions are still rough but we land on the wind protected side of the island. For the last time we visit a Chinstrap colony. We are lucky and find over 30 fur seals on the island and as a bonus there is even a big female elephant seal! What a nice treat just before our departure!<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1446\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"IMG_1448\"<\/a> \"IMG_1450\"<\/a> \"IMG_1452\"<\/a> \"IMG_1463\"<\/a> \"IMG_1462\"<\/a><\/p>\n

C\u2019est maintenant le moment de quitter l\u2019Antarctique et de mettre le cap sur Ushuaia que nous rejoindrons dans 3 jours.<\/p>\n

Comme \u00e0 l’aller, les oiseaux marins nous accompagnent tout au long de la journ\u00e9e.
\nSea birds also acompanie us ou our way back:
\n<\/span><\/em>\"IMG_1285b\"<\/a>
\n\"Jack_Kerivan-2288\"<\/a> \"Jack_Kerivan-2481\"<\/a>
\n<\/span>
\nAfter 2.5 days of relatively calm cruise we are back in Ushuaia.
\nAt a cosy coffee place in town we enjoy re-living our trip once more time while putting the photos for the blog together. It definitely is one of our favourits for the\u00a0year of travel:
\nUnexpected wonderful nature in white and blue<\/strong>.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Quel beau voyage\u00a0!!!<\/b><\/p>\n

Dire que nous n\u2019avions m\u00eame pas programm\u00e9 ce voyage dans notre p\u00e9riple d\u2019une ann\u00e9e en Am\u00e9rique du Sud\u00a0!
\nNous avons d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de le faire suite \u00e0 deux rencontres avec deux couples de voyageurs qui venaient de rentrer et qui nous en ont parl\u00e9 de mani\u00e8re tellement enthousiasmante que nous ne pouvions pas passer \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de cette extraordinaire aventure.<\/p>\n

Nous retrouvons\u00a0 maintenant notre Azala\u00ef<\/b> que nous avons laiss\u00e9 aux bons soins du propri\u00e9taire du camping \u00ab\u00a0Andino\u00a0\u00bb<\/b> \u00e0 Ushuaia et remontons vers Puerto Natales<\/b> pour y visiter les parcs nationaux qui feront l\u2019objet de notre prochain article.<\/p>\n

From here we will now very slowly make our way up to Buenos Aires (first time we are going north since about\u00a05 Months!).
\nNext stop: the probably most famous National Park of all South America: Torres del Paine.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Amiti\u00e9s \u00e0 toutes et tous et \u00e0 bient\u00f4t\u00a0!
\nMilke<\/p>\n

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\n<\/i><\/i>
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 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Bienvenue en P\u00e9ninsule Antarctique. Sur les pas du Capitaine Robert F. Cook, E. Shackleton, Amundsen qui ont foul\u00e9 pour la premi\u00e8re fois cette terre en 1902. Dans cet article, nous allons parler des 14 jours que nous avons pass\u00e9s dans … Continuer la lecture →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"aside","meta":{"_s2mail":"yes","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1188","post","type-post","status-publish","format-aside","hentry","category-blog","post_format-post-format-aside"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1188","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1188"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1188\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1302,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1188\/revisions\/1302"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1188"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1188"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/milke.fr\/Blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1188"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}